Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had a stock R32 that made 115rwkw, stock everything.

125rwkw with fuel leaned out a little on 95RON fuel.

This was done with a bleeder on the FPR.

95RON fuel wouldn't allow any more than the base 15degree's ignition timing.

The exhaust went on, power went to 140rwkw with no fuel fiddling, only ignition timing & 98RON fuel.

12.5psi gave me 152rwkw with a bit of ignition timing & fuel bleed with 98RON fuel.

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

But i've seen a couple of guys running that sort of boost level through stock RB20 - No Intercooler/Dumpipe and their turbo hasn't died yet!

Jun

Hey, i would be a fine example of that...

same mods as above 3 inch cat back exhaust, air filter.

lately these cold nights i've been getting constant 15psi runs and during the day about 13~14psi

Still have the same stock from cooler in the left hand side, no boost controller..yet

running fine

how do u run more boost like 14-15psi with out a boost controller HCR32?

mate im asking my self that same question

i know r32gtst run stock 9~10 psi, with after market exhaust and air filter you can expect it to jump up to a higher psi reading like 12ish

but as i said above, cool nights, keeping an eye on the boost gauge its hitting 14~15psi and holding strong.

Some people might not call a bleedvalve a boost controller... could be one reason :D

Either that or you could do a bodgy mod like this.. :)

Grab a big arsed Yellow screw driver and ring spanner.

Loosen off the actuator bolts jimmy the actuator away from the turbo and tighten up the bolts. Be carefull with the right foot as just a little too much adjustment will easily see 18+psi. :)

With this setup I didn't need any form of bleeder or boost controller.

It also held any boost level to redline and beyond. Bleeders would tend to drop back to 12.5psi over 5500rpm. EBC's held boost, this free mod does what an ebc does. :D

so if i create a GAP between my actuator n turbo? how much boost will i be running?

I mentioned it in my previous post..

Be carefull with the right foot as just a little too much adjustment will easily see 18+psi. :D

No one knows how much boost you will be running.

You have to try and becareful.

If you don't feel confident playing then don't do it. You WILL blow something up if you are not carefull.

hahaha

So a standard rb20 turbo can run 15psi ok(occasionally of course)? When does the power start to drop off at, 6,000rpm similar to s13s?

Whats the redline on an rb20 btw...

Also what kinda 1/4 times wud u be getting with 15psi + fmic + full zorst (im guessin 150rwkw and flat 14s)??

R32s seem to be a backwards step in power from my old 180 but they look better... hehe

hahaha

So a standard rb20 turbo can run 15psi ok(occasionally of course)? When does the power start to drop off at, 6,000rpm similar to s13s?

Whats the redline on an rb20 btw...

Also what kinda 1/4 times wud u be getting with 15psi + fmic + full zorst (im guessin 150rwkw and flat 14s)??

R32s seem to be a backwards step in power from my old 180 but they look better... hehe

6000rpm power would seem to drop off because of cams. I have found keep going to about 6250-6500 just to keep it in the power a bit more on the gearchange, but thats with my car.

Id hope with those mods tho you would be getting more power than me... I have stock cooler, and 12psi, and got 145rwkw on a hotish day, at what would seem a pretty spot on dyno. I've also run a 14.156 in a car that is about 150kgs heavier.

So you make 145rwkw on 12psi with a full zorst? Im guessin the 14.1 is in the 32?

Im buyin an r32 and tryin to know what to expect :D

Nah, sorry, no dump pipe yet. Just stock dump, rest is prety much 3inch straigh bit of pipe, I think one 30* or so bend after the front pipe.

And no, time is made in a cefiro, with pretty stiff suspension.

Jazz.

I always rev'd my RB20DET to a shade over 7000rpm. BUT with stockish boost it feels as if you want to change around 6500rpm.

More boost helps extend the top end for some reason.

I posted earlier in this thread, Full exhaust & 12.5psi it made 152rwkw.

1bar made 164rwkw at 7000rpm.

I then pushed it to 1.1bar and used to run 0-100km/h in ~5.2secs and 175km/h in the 13's. So I'd say it would have been in the high 13's.

R32's weigh in at just over 1300kg's.

R33's weigh ~1400kg's.

Is the actual redline 7k or 7.5k on the tacho? People seem to say RBs (and CA's) can rev better than Sr20s... yet an sr20 redline is 7.5k, is the RB the same? Obviously i know these engines are simply happier at those higher rpms too :D

Cef... Weight 1330kg

R32.... Weight 1290kg

But then, mines got the skyline brakes, bit of stezza gear, all my cds (about 400 odd in the car all adds up :D) bigger fuel tank, few other upgrades/extras abs etc, and I had the air compressor etc in there for after races.

So yeah, do the sums.

The solid redline is at 7500rpm. It begins to show a warning redline at 7000rpm.

The tachno means crap but.. :D

Fit a big turbo and rev the sucker to 8000rpm. :D

I've driven a S15 making around 170rwkw, fmic exhaust & ebc.

That definitely didn't want to rev anything like the rb20.

The Sr20 felt as if it was begging you to change at 6000rpm. The RB20DET keeps saying.. just a little more just a little more. :)

For traffic lights I much prefer the sr20. For the twisties and hills the RB20DET is much more fun and usefull with its revability and wider power band.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...