Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have just acquired an Apexi AX53B70-P25 turbo and starting the install. The standard oil lines will all match up fine, but my problem is the braided water lines that came with the turbo. They are the type that screw onto a thread (sort of like a gas pipe). One of them has an end cut off.

My guess from this is:

- I have to get a fitting to screw one line into the block in place of the stock line. (Where can I get one?)

- Either cut or unscrew (possible?) the banjo off the line that goes around the back of the block and clamp the braided to the stock line.

- Should the water line from the block go into the top water line on the turbo or vice versa?

You can just see the braided lines here and I'll get some pictures up tonight:

http://www.apexi.co.jp/pro_apexi/turbo/ax_...070/shouhin.jpg

Thanks for any input!!

If it's the line that runs around the back of the head you may be lucky and be able to remove the rubber section of line and hook the braided line straight up to the fitting with a clamp.

If that isn't possible then i'd be looking at getting a replacement line made up with a barbed fitting to fit into the rubber hose on the back of the head.

Id be guessing but i reckon the the fittings should match the block thread on a jap kit. Worst case try earls in Silverwater.

Thanks BHDave.

Just been out there now, the braided line is definitely not long enough to get around the back of the block, lucky to make it far from the turbo at all given the bends. The braided hose as given to me has been cut and has two big clamps (type with philips head screw) on the end - the hose would be perfect fit to slide over the existing metal line.

So tempting to just hack saw the end of the banjo and clamp the braided line to the end. Just a little apprehensive as once its done it'd be a difficult to replace!

I went to enzed and got a double ended thread which threads into the block and then the water line can be attached to that - one done!

If I remove the banjo end from the water line that runs behind the block and clamp it to that, then that is done. Waiting to hear back from my workshop to see if that has how they did it on the car the turbo came from... should be okay.

Now, another problem, if that wasn't enough. The original oil line that goes to the top of the turbo all lines up beautiful. Problem. The bolt that goes from the original oil line banjo to the turbo is too big for the thread in the turbo!! I spoke to the guys at pirtek and enzed and they don't have any magical bolt that is the right size for the banjo end and the smaller thread for the turbo. What was apexi thinking!!

Now I am trying to see if this mysterios banjo bolt went missing at the workshop or the previous owner has it - crossing fingers at this stage. Failing that I am going to go the same route as the first water line - bolt a connect into the block and turbo and run a braided line between them.

I just want to see this baby go damnit :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...