Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It all depends on if some are full of oil still. Hydraulic lifters can be moved up and down unless they are packed with oil or blocked. Givem a good cleanout and test them again. Personally I would whack them all back in the engine. If they aren't noisy then leave em alone. If they are then replace the offenders.

It all depends on if some are full of oil still. Hydraulic lifters can be moved up and down unless they are packed with oil or blocked. Givem a good cleanout and test them again. Personally I would whack them all back in the engine. If they aren't noisy then leave em alone. If they are then replace the offenders.

thanks......

Hydrolic lifters should be bled before you reintall them .

This is how you bleed them : Imerse them in in engine oil , get a wire that will fit in the hole , push the wire in the hole then try pumping the by hand until they become tight and no more tiny air bubbles come out . at all times you must keep the totaly in oil and in upright position .

Then install them in the engine start the car and they should be quiet after about 30 seconds .

When they are fully bled it should be imposible to push then down by hand .

Hydrolic lifters should be bled before you reintall them .

This is how you bleed them : Imerse them in in engine oil , get a wire that will fit in the hole , push the wire in the hole then try pumping the by hand until they become tight and no more tiny air bubbles come out . at all times you must keep the totaly in oil and in upright position .

Then install them in the engine start the car and they should be quiet after about 30 seconds .

When they are fully bled it should be imposible to push then down by hand .

thanks for the info, I'll go and try that first..... I got a quote for new ones and it amounts to a 1000 euro's which is approx 2000 aus$...then I'll rather convert to Tomei solids.....

Tomei Solids are designed for cams of a smaller overall rolling diameter.. the Stock diameter is 32mm and the Tomei Solids are designed for a 30mm diameter camshaft, so that you don't need to reshim for the installation of the higher lift PROCAM... Look again dude.. if you change to solid lifters, you might want to consider the base diameter of your camshaft... Tolerances here are not good for 1mm of pliable crap to runa round!!!

Tomei Solids are designed for cams of a smaller overall rolling diameter.. the Stock diameter is 32mm and the Tomei Solids are designed for a 30mm diameter camshaft, so that you don't need to reshim for the installation of the higher lift PROCAM... Look again dude.. if you change to solid lifters, you might want to consider the base diameter of your camshaft... Tolerances here are not good for 1mm of pliable crap to runa round!!!

I meant the complete tomei package (lifters,shims,springs and cams) that should cover all tolerances; shouldn't it?

I meant the complete tomei package (lifters,shims,springs and cams) that should cover all tolerances; shouldn't it?

In general terms Tomei provide just about everything in their line up, you just ahve to know what to pick.. You generally don't need the solid lifters until you are long way into the Lift side of things. If you are prepared for this then go for it..

In general terms Tomei provide just about everything in their line up, you just ahve to know what to pick.. You generally don't need the solid lifters until you are long way into the Lift side of things. If you are prepared for this then go for it..

well since I most likely have to replace them anyway and the tomei stuff will only cost me a few hundred bucks more, I'd rather go for the tomei stuff.(building the complete block for high boost anyway(pistons,rods, new bearings,upgraded oil/water pump etc) and with the tomei stuff it will also benefit from higher rpm limit and more lift)

you were right about the cam base circle, tomei lists stock as 32mm and the solid conversion is 29mm.....

anybody around here ever done this mod?

thanks.....

I haven't as yet, but will be ina few months, I am planning on going for the 260deg 10.85mm lift PROCAM along with the associated guff..

ok I'm interested in how it goes, also just bought an rb26 head for cheap, complete, that's also an alternative to convert to solid and up the rpm lilmit to 8200.........

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...