Jump to content
SAU Community

RB20DET Max Boost

TimmyB

By TimmyB,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

14psi is considered the safe max

some have run more with no drama's, others have run less and had drama's

You might pick up a few psi with a differant intercooler, but it will also mean your turbo wont have to work as hard to make the same boost as previous if you run 14psi with the stock intercooler compared to 14psi with a aftermarket cooler

hope it makes sense

Chris

TimmyB Contributor

TimmyB

Posted
  • Author
Posted
14psi is considered the safe max

some have run more with no drama's, others have run less and had drama's

You might pick up a few psi with a differant intercooler, but it will also mean your turbo wont have to work as hard to make the same boost as previous if you run 14psi with the stock intercooler compared to 14psi with a aftermarket cooler

hope it makes sense

Chris

Right so by running 14psi, i wouldn't have to alter anything else on the engine?

The fuel system would be able to keep up with no problems?

So are you saying that by upgrading the intercooler i could say run 12psi and get the same result as running 14psi on the standard cooler?

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted
Right so by running 14psi, i wouldn't have to alter anything else on the engine?

The fuel system would be able to keep up with no problems?

So are you saying that by upgrading the intercooler i could say run 12psi and get the same result as running 14psi on the standard cooler?

If your standard boost gauge (or aftermarket with sensor in the same place) is reading 14psi, that is the actual pressure at the inlet manifold. So, if there is say 3 psi pressure drop through the intercooler and piping etc, the turbo is actually running at 17psi.

So if you reduce the pressure drop, the turbo doesnt have to work so hard to produce the same pressure at the inlet manifold.

TimmyB Contributor

TimmyB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

right i'm with ya.

So by upgrading the intercooler it should reduce the preasure drop and make life for the turbo that little bit easier.

I've been thinking about installing a single stage boost controller with just a flick switch down the track, and was wondering what would be a reasonable level to increase too.

Thanks for that guys.

Does anyone run any good boost controllers that are worth looking in too????

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

if you can afford it, there are many benefits to be had with a electronic boost controller

if you do wind the boost up, make sure you get it dyno'd to check air fuel ratio's, especially if the car has the original pump in it

You know once you start with boost, it will never end ;) - fuel pump, clutch, intercooler the list goes on!

TimmyB Contributor

TimmyB

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i

You know once you start with boost, it will never end ;)  - fuel pump, clutch, intercooler the list goes on!

Cool thanx man.

A friend and i have been talking and it's like you say, a very deep expensive hole that you can fall in to, i'm not sure i want to fall in that hole. but i'll see how things go. i've also got a rather fast motorBike, so i might just keep the extreme speed for that. (on the track of course)

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

I'd say if your car is in reasonable condition, there is no reason it can't cope with a bit of a boost up

bang for bucks wise a bleed valve can be had for $40 odd bucks, you could try it and see how the car feels. If you don't like it or the car can't handle it, then take it off and sell it

My car was good when i put the intercooler, exhaust and pod filter on, it made 153rwkw with the standard fuel pump, clutch etc. That was without touching the boost too, just with the intercooler and exhaust

if I where you, I'd get one of those $200 all in one dump/front pipe, ditch the cat, intercooler and mild boost up and see how it feels. Either way by increasing flow with the intercooler, or winding a bit of boost in, it will make more power and feel heaps better

TimmyB Contributor

TimmyB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah i think that might be a way to go to start with .Just get a manual boost controller and go from there. I understand that there is no use spending a heap if it's not going to get the results or desired reaction.

I think if i was to do anything, and intercooler and exhaust would be the first thing to be looked at. I already have a HKS pod on there, so don't need to go there, and then i might look at uping the boost. Would be alright i recon.

Just a question man, what would a standard RB20DET make at the wheels??? ;)

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

stock standard in good condition they should make around 100-110rwkw

I'd go with intercooler and exhaust, becasue that is what would give you the best gain, as the boost will rise with less restriction anyway. From there I would look at fuel pump and boost control. I would expect to see 150rwk from exhaust and intercooler mods

TimmyB Contributor

TimmyB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

oh right. Well i recon that could be a little project work for me to do further down the track.

I'll be looking to make sure it's running alright and smooth, and then i'll think about a few mods, i think exhaust first. Then i'll look at an intercooler.

would you think a larger intercooler would fit in the same location as the standard, or would it be best to go straight for a front mount???

I'd be pretty happy with 150 thats for sure. ;)

oscar32 Mentor

oscar32

Posted
Posted
14psi is considered the safe max

some have run more with no drama's, others have run less and had drama's

You might pick up a few psi with a differant intercooler, but it will also mean your turbo wont have to work as hard to make the same boost as previous if you run 14psi with the stock intercooler compared to 14psi with a aftermarket cooler

hope it makes sense

Chris

I ran 15 psi on my old turbo, and threw an exhaust blade on a track day. It went well for about 6 months or so, maybe if you are looking to upgrade in the furture you can lean on it a bit more. I'd recomend a HKS actuator to help boost creep at that level ;)

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted
oh right. Well i recon that could be a little project work for me to do further down the track.

I'll be looking to make sure it's running alright and smooth, and then i'll think about a few mods, i think exhaust first. Then i'll look at an intercooler.

would you think a larger intercooler would fit in the same location as the standard, or would it be best to go straight for a front mount???

I'd be pretty happy with 150 thats for sure. ;)

Front mount would be the way to go, much more cooling capacity and potential down the track. There is a Trust side mount cooler on ebay for pretty cheap though

TimmyB Contributor

TimmyB

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Front mount would be the way to go, much more cooling capacity and potential down the track. There is a Trust side mount cooler on ebay for pretty cheap though

i think i'd have to go for the front mount. There sounds like there would be a better performance from it. I'm sure there must be somewhere that it isn't too hard to mount. Plus it can look pretty tough. But thats beside the point.

What size exhaust would be good to put on??? I wouldn't want anything too big.

Oosh Veteran

Oosh

Posted
Posted

If you've got a boost controller there's not much case to upgrade the actuators on RB20's as they came out the factory with 10psi items.

I've just jumped straight in to electronic bost control, if you're handy with a soldering iron you can build one of the new JayCar/Autospeed kits and get away with it all for ~$200 and a few hours work. Discussion thread here.

I've only set mine up roughly but I'm holding 12psi with no dramas and far better boost build-up than previously, i'm going to fine tune things but stay around the 12psi mark until I get it on the dyno next month, provided the mixtures are stable i'll rise things to 14psi but no more.

My car is running a 600x300x75mm front mount, 3" exhaust from the stock dump-pipe back, Denso Supra TT Fuel pump, and a re-mapped ECU for handling more boost (which looking at it on the PC has predominantly ignition timing changes).

Just make sure you have the support systems in place to handle the boost rise, a FMIC and exhaust will give you gains without it, a slightly smaller cooler and 2.5" will suffice but if you intend to eventually replace the stock turbo then a full-size item and a 3" is probably worthwhile.

After they're in move it up a little but make sure you're not leaning out, if you are then drop a pump in and maybe look for an ECU re-map (you don't need a a full PowerFC system unless you intend to go BIG!). And then you can raise it a little more, after that you hit the point where bigger turbos, injectors, and more extensive re-maps come on the cards and your money goes out the window! ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...