Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im looking at buying a t3/t04e for my rb25det. ($1000)

it has stage 3 wheels, 3" inlet, 2" outlet, .50 A/R compressor cover and .63 A/R turbine with a .57 trim

Its internally gated and will bolt straight up.

To fit the turbo what mods will have to be made? ie intercooler piping?

so far my car has FMIC, upgraded fuel pump, surge tank, 3" zorst from turbo back, and air intake. I only have factory ecu and injectors. will they be up to it?

what kind of power at the wheels can i expect running at 10-13psi?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67091-t3t04e/
Share on other sites

im after 240rwkw or so...

my plan of attack is to do this in a cpl of stages

stage 1: power fc + HC -$980

stage 2: injectors -$650

fuel regulator -$200

stage 3: t3/t04e turbo $1000

theres a couple of these turbo's on the market and some dont have the best reviews. This worries me a bit. Im on a bit of a budget but im after a turbo that bolts straight onto the existing rb25det manifold and is internally gated.

Have much to get this stuff fitted and tuned and does anyone think there is anything else i would need?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67091-t3t04e/#findComment-1250197
Share on other sites

Let me make sure I have got this right, are you really considering taking a ball bearing, water cooled turbo off and replacing it with an older generation, plain bearing, non water cooled turbo?

If you do make that decision, you will have to;

Block off the water feed and return lines

Buy a compressor inlet adaptor (the diameters are different)

Have an adaptor fabricated to fit the compressor outlet to the standard intercooler inlet pipework

Have an adaptor made for the wastegate actuator

Add up the cost of parts, plus it will take at least three times as long to fit. Add that to the $200 you don't need to spend on the adj fuel pressure regulator, the Power FC and the injectors will do the job perfectly. You should than have almost enough to buy a ball bearing hi flow, which is a far superior solution technology wise and will save money in servicing over its life.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67091-t3t04e/#findComment-1250292
Share on other sites

fair enough, is there other options beside the high flow then? is there a great difference between the stage 1(450hp) and stage 2(500+hp) high flows.  

Are gcg the most reputable highflower or is there other co's out there that can do an adequate highflow?

I only used the 450 bhp hi flow from GCG, I always believed that the 500 runs too close to the surge line. I had heard that they don't do the 500 anymore for that reason. We get 265 rwkw out of the R34GTT with one, which is pretty close to the rated 450 bhp, so it's a genuine number. Plus it makes more power EVERYWHERE than standard. There are quite a few other RB25's with similar results, so it's not a fluke engine.

As for other options, there are litterly hundreds. But you set a budget and the fabrication and extra work required to fit them would blow that budget. Plus I am not a fan of taking standard internal RB25's over 450 bhp, some people do it and get away with it, but plenty more have had failures. For an all round performance (drag, circuit and road), almost standard response, ease of fitting and right up to the std internals limit, I have yet to find a better solution.

:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67091-t3t04e/#findComment-1251281
Share on other sites

ive seen a cpl of 2nd hand high flows for sale for bout $1000. What is the expected life of a high flow and would you u steer clear of a 2nd hand high flow?

Refering to my first post would i need to upgrade the injectors with a 450 hp high flow or would i be able to get away with a just fuel regulator. I already have an upgraded fuel pump.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67091-t3t04e/#findComment-1251407
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • You're already well into "gearbox is a consumable" territory there. A billet plate will either make it (effectively) 1% stronbger or make it last one more pass. At some point you'll probably tear 3rd gear into small chunks and regret all the life decisions that came before it.
    • ..and forum.r31skylineclub has been down all week....anyone know why?
    • I thought it could be an issue because the standard plate was flexing when stressed. Maybe the original gear set will hold a bit better without flex? Last time on the dyno it made around 670nm at the hubs. Now it have bigger turbo and better intake but have not been on a dyno yet. The car is being used from family trips to drag race events. So the shifts can be a little violent. It is grinding if I shift to fast so was thinking I should overhaul it soon.
    • From the factory on RB26s there's a fitting on the intake manifold collector/"plenum" that provides pre-throttle boost signal. That's how they did it back in the day, I figure it's fine to replicate it.
    • I would be surprised if that wasn't the issue. It's probably telling you, that even if you remove the plastic liner, you may have some other clearance issues that may occur too in some scenarios. IE, tyre to guard. It looks like someone has already rolled the lip, but you may still have issues in the future IE, turning and hitting a bump etc. The fact it changes how bad it makes the noise when you are going backward vs forward is highly indicative that it's the tyre rubbing. They do make a terrible sound, even if you're only pushing a project car that has a liner hanging down on a tyre!   Has the car been lowered? If it has been, what is the measurement from the centre of the wheel hub to the lip of the guard straight up?
×
×
  • Create New...