Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

BRAND NEW TURBO KIT FOR RB20/RB25DET

SPECS:


· T3/T4 .50compressor housing, .63 exhaust housing, 5 Bolt exhaust.

· (1) 90-degree and (1) 45-degree pipe for Downpipe

· Brand new 8.7Psi Wastegate

· Brand New Dual Type 50mm BOV

· Set of Turbo accessories

· One full set Oil Line and fittings

· Oil return Line kit

. Stainless (High mount) Manifold - STAINLESS with Lifetime Warranty

Price is $1500 + delivery.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68763-500hp-turbo-kit-for-rb20rb25det/
Share on other sites

The AR's for this turbo are very common for upgrades to the R32 and R33 you will obviously find your car Cumming on to boost a bit later as it is a bigger turbo you might be sacrificing any where from 300 to 500rpm to what your stock turbo would come on to boost it can handle up to 20psi as well.

Thanks

What kinda lag wud u get with that on an rb20 and what boost levels are best through it?

The AR's for this turbo are very common for upgrades to the R32 and R33 you will obviously find your car Cumming on to boost a bit later as it is a bigger turbo you might be sacrificing any where from 300 to 500rpm to what your stock turbo would come on to boost it can handle up to 20psi as well.

Thanks

I know plenty of people using Master Power turbos and making big reliable power.

very similiar to XSPower....

Its the way you install the turbo, most people that buy these turbos are on a budget therefor they usually try and install the turbo themselves and theres your problem right there, there is alot of people out there that dont know the 1st thing about installing a turbo and are on a budget and try and install themselves to save a bit of $$$, they just think they can rip the old one off and slap the new one on.

Its the way you install the turbo, most people that buy these turbos are on a budget therefor they usually try and install the turbo themselves and theres your problem right there, there is alot of people out there that dont know the 1st thing about installing a turbo and are on a budget and try and install themselves to save a bit of $$$, they just think they can rip the old one off and slap the new one on.

Most turbos that die are due to poor quality turbos like XSPower

http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110947

]

The Ebay seller you bought it off

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...