Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys ive just bought an r32 gts-t 1989 and im getting its all registered and plates ect and for the stamp duty they say they want the market value of the cars but they places they told me i could find it dont have them for skylines do you guys know how much or when i could find some info? i know its $8 out of every $200 of the market value i thought it was the purchase?? thanks in advance!!

Stamp duty is 4% of total purchase. So for example a car you buy for $10,000 you will need to pay $400 stamp duty (in victoria). When I called up a few insurance companies to ask about the "market value" of skylines, I was told that since they are imported the usual "market value" price estimate is not available, but that really doesnt matter, on the registration form you can pretty much write down the purchase price as anything, Im just taking a wild guess but since your car is a 89 R32 GTST (assuming its just imported) you may have paid around $7000 for it? Just right down that price, pay the $280 and bobs ur uncle!

Well in NSW... and taken from NSW RTA website...

"You pay stamp duty on the market value of the vehicle or on the price you paid for the

vehicle, whichever is higher. Stamp duty is 3% of the market value of the car, up to

$45,000 then 5% on the value over $45,000."

So say if the stamp duty is based on $8000 you will pay $240 stamp duty.

Hope that helps.

Just quote the purchase price, if they think its too low, they'll send you a letter. But as the car is moe than 15 years old, they probably wont care.

When i bought my r32 2 years ago for $16.5k, they wrote me a letter saying that was too cheap! Ends up they looked up the aus delivered R32 GTR as its the only skyline on the system. I just wrote them a letter back and it was all fine.

that for the help guys i got her 2day!!! see how it turns out im going to vic roads on wednesday.... the guy i bought it off put 4gz on the receipt hopefully its only about 200 or so. the car cost me 11gz though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...