Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title says - the time has come to sell it....

I've had it for 5 years, and that's long enough for any car - and as I'm saving to buy a house - it has to go... Pretty much everything that can be done has been done...

But as I just need a car to drive to-from work etc, this car is wasted on me...

I'm looking for about $26500 which is pretty damned good value when you look at what a standard one goes for and what this one has done to it.

It's been in a few mags (HPI issue 39 and the current issue 56 and Autospeed), and it's awesome fun to drive, but as I bought a daily, I don't use it anymore.

Details as follows:

Appearance

- 17" Lightweight Jim Head Racing rims (17x8 front, 17x9 rear) - 255 rear/235 front - Falken Azenis ST115)

- M Spec Body kit

- Drift rear wing

- Tinted Windows

- Lowered (see suspension)

Interior

- Razo Gear shift and pedals

- Momo Race Steering Wheel

- R33 Skyline GTR front Seats

Sound System

- Nakamichi MB-75 6 disc cd head unit

- Focal Poly-Kevlar 100watt 6" splits (fronts)

- Orion Cobolt 6" 2 way coax (rears)

Intake & Exhaust

- Turbosmart Type 1 BOV

- Apexi Power Intake Air Filter

- Custom Cold air intake

- Blitz 4" front mount intercooler

- 3 1/2" trust exhaust from the cat back, 3" high flow cat, and a 3 1/2" trust system up to the turbo

- External 45mm Seperate pipe on the Wastegate into the exhaust just before the cat.

Engine

Top End

- RB25DET i6 24valve twin cam head (freshly rebuilt)

- Skyline GTR Cams

- Skyline GTR Valve springs

- Modified oiling system restricting flow to the head.

- Tomei 1.2mm metal head gasket

Bottom End

- RB30 3.0 litre turbo bottom end

- JE Forged Pistons (Dished) - HPC Coated

- Shot peened, crack tested, and strengthened rods

- Balanced & machined crank

- Blueprinted & balanced during assembly

- GTR Oil & Water pump

- Tomei Rod Bolts

- enlarged baffled Sump

- Oil/Air Seperator with return line to the sump.

Turbo, ECU & Fuel

- Trust Hybrid Turbo (T04R front wheel, back cut t66 rear, 360deg thrust bearing)

- Trust 45mm External WasteGate

- Trust Custom Tubular Exhaust Manifold

- Apexi PowerFC ECU

- Apexi AVC Type R Electronic Boost Controller.

- 16psi boost.

- Z32 300zx Air Flow Meter

- Aftermarket Jap 550cc Injectors (unknown brand)

- Bosch Motorsport 800 Fuel Pump.

Drivetrain

- Factory Nissan 5 spd Manual

- Exedy Daikan Heavy Duty Clutch (Full Face)

- Cusco 4.11 Upgraded LSD

Suspension & Brakes

- Bilstein Shocks

- Whiteline Springs (30mm lowered)

- Whiteline front/Rear adjustable sway bar

- Whiteline Anti-Camber Kit

- Whiteline Castor Kit

- Whiteline Rear-Subframe Lock

- Custom HICAS removal kit.

- R33 GTR 4 Piston Brembo Calipers front with EBC Greenstuff Pads

- 2 Piston Calipers rear with Slotted discs & Bendix Ultimates

Power & Times

- 352rwkw @ Melbourne Autosalon '04.

- 12.3 @ 124mph with 300rwkw - on current street tyres.

Pictures

More to come, but here's a couple.

mrlgtstback0sz.th.jpg

mrlgtstengine1xh.th.jpg

mrlgtstfront2av.th.jpg

mrlgtstrear9fa.th.jpg

mrlgtstside0bl.th.jpg

As mentioned - I'm after about $26,500 which is good value when you look at the mods list. This is a VERY quick and reliable car.

FYI - It's got 10months Rego too.

matt

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Bump - price updated to $26500 - this is very cheap at that price...

BTW - If you want to see some more pics - have a look in this months HPI under R33 GTS25-t reviews...

matt

Last chance to buy it as a whole car before I pull it down and sell off the parts seperately.

FYI - This car is as seen on the Racepace website.

Cheers,

matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...