Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

INTRODUCTION

Hey guys,

I'm new to the world of turbos, but I'm not one to do anything half-assed. So my first engine swap is the RB26DETT into my S13. I hope you guys can accept a Skyline wannabe like me, as this is the only place I wanna be. Yes I know the supposed impossibilies and money factors, however I'm working with my friends who have done some real firsts out there, and we're doing all the work ourselves.

Money, that's what a lot of this comes down too. I've got over US$6000 dropped into this little prodject. All well spent dollars mind you, a lot of hybrid swapping and some used parts. Every dollar saved here and there, adds up to one more performance part or overlooked swap item I need.

Thanks for reading, I hope to tell you guys more about how I'm doing over here. This is a pretty rare swap, I will probably be the only one for 100s of miles with any RB in their Silvia, let alone the 26

QUESTION:

Okay, here's the very, very simple question I have to ask:

I am missing the tubing from the actuator on the turbos and obviously whatever controller that was operating them from the firewall.

? How do the actuators work, and what would happen if I didn't hook anything up to them. Can a bleeder valve (spring and ball type) work in this situation.

I am obviously going to be getting an EBC in the future; however, if it's something I can do without for a while then that's a few 100 bucks saved in case something breaks during the swap.

THANKS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...