Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

eastern creek and oran park is only an 1hr n a bit from newi. good fun and easier to get to via the putty rd though.

mine are alloy ones from garage 13, $120... there are ones getting around for all different prices... i saw some polyurethane ones for $60.

your car doesnt need many mods to have fun. its better learning in a stockish car. that way as your skills increase, your car increases with you... unlike those guys that buy a drift pig from japan and lose it into a tree etc. etc.

cheers

Linton

  • Replies 106
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I pretty sure Eastern Creek is closer than oran park. But from what i have heard and not saying that i know sydney well oran park is another hour away?

Once you install the the hicas lock and pineapples you have to tell if you notice much of a difference. oh and there is a group but for a drift hand brake button only 20 bucks if your serious about drift.

Yeah agree with you i reckon you could probably drift a stockish skyline probably only need first few gears. Not like you will be doing high speed drifts when your just learning. I will be insterested once i get my car in order.

Christ!

Oran Park isn't THAT much further downt he track, but in Sydney it does always depend on which roads you use and at what time of the day.

Oran Park is about the only place that regular drift days are on now, and from Eastern Creek your looking at another 30 mins further on.

But in all reality, if you know where your going well enough it should only take you about 2 - 2.5 hours to get there..... give or take.

But for people like Linton, you come straight down Putty Rd, then get on the Northern Rd and follow it to Oran Park, fugging easy as, and I reckon you'd have more fun, and probably get there quicker.

well i go down the putty, so oran park is closer than eastern creek. maybe not actually closer, but easier to get to. there is drift day next weekend, ill be there, not sure if ill be entering.

ive got a drift button coming from garage 13 for $20, for the moment ive just taped my handbrake button in...works a charm, cept parking on hills....bit of a problem, but eh, not my everyday car.

also, ian... have you ever tried to remove your wing?? just wondering, coz mines all glued on n shit, n i wanna take it off, if yours comes off easy, would you be interested in swapping bootlids??

cheers

Linton

ill just rip it off mine...might try it today.

also guys, ive been thinkin of making some aluminium airboxes and radiator panels.... identical to my UAS item. im going to make one for me, as the UAS is thin as fibreglass and does jack shit except keep the cops wondering whats under there.

they will be made slightly different, to make install and removal easier. out of 3mm aluminium sheet which i will polish up to mirror finish...the cooling panel will also be made out thicker aluminuim.

also getting some Garage Debris stickers made up to go on them..

UAS sells the airbox for $200 and the cooling panel for $75. i think id be able to halve this and then some...

im posting it here coz i dont want a huge reply or demand for other items like the c/f thread in the for sale section, will be for close proximity R33 gtst's to start with. PM me if you're interested

gtstairbox1.jpg

gtstairbox2.jpg

gtstairbox3.jpg

33gtstairguide.jpg

cheers guys

Linton

I'll send ya pm later Linton, but definately want one.

If you wanna hand, or wanna try and modify it to a 180 as well, we move on Tuesday and the Driftpimp garage will be set up and ready to go by wednesday or thursday :)

It'll go great with the new Blitz pod I just purcahsed!

:)

hey ian...i just made one up for antons 180....still got the templates, will need to be modifed though, as his has custom piping. but yeh, looks good. also needs a little bit of fine tuning, but i was happy with it.

ill post some pics of it tomorrow.

from swansea dont cruz the foreshore any more havent for years, they took the good old days away because of the idiots and realy rightly so it was getting pritty bad with under age drinking which tends to bring alot of heat around many problems in there not to mention bumper to bumper on sundays but older and a little wiser i cruz the lake and the central coast,there's no little blue men standing there with a plastic road block laughing at u there the island has been ruled out of my books for years to plus it isnt that great of a strip either ,all in saying this when i was there it was great ooooo the memory's are a-coming back , if u see the gruntn black r32 give us a wave.

bit late but.......im from newy too. used to go in most weekends. have no licence for 6 mnths tho, get mates to drive it tho. its a midnight blue GTS-4 .... i havent seen any other GTS-4's aswell. anyone go in there that has one? send me a wave if ya see me in there... i'll be in the passenger seat for a while..hehe.

Hey guys,

Im purchasing an APEXi RSM this week, but i dunno where i should place it in my dash.

I might get the little APEXi stand too (depending on how i mount it), but i didnt wanna drill any holes in the dash to hold it in place.

So i was wondering if you guys could give me some links/photos of R33's with a RSM so i can get ideas of where to mount it.

Cheers :D Dave

double sided tape my man, works a treat. comes off when you want it to, not when it wants to. get the stand, it'll look heaps neater, depending on where you run the wiring.....

no one will really care if its not show car standard.

cheers

Linton

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...