Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all its time to sell my baby its a 93 model R33 GTS-T maroon in colour it has tien ajustable suspention,FMIC,17x8 and 17x9 1/2 OZ racing wheels silver in colour (not on car jew to bauld tyres) BIG cat back exhuast ,auto metre gauges mounted in pod in middle of dash (oil pressure,boost,water temp) and auto metre tacho mounted on drivers A pillar after market blow off valve it ,has big rear wing and body kit to match needs a good tidy up 120,000 k's CHEAP at $14,000 no offers

with number plates SIK-33T as you can see by the pics the fibreglass has some cracks and shit like that

01250001.JPG

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71991-93-gts-t-93-fs/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yes sorry its manual it has a mechanical locker diff (cusco i think )also a nismo clutch and ill be putting more pics up tomorrow of interior and with standard wheels fitted .

it is located on central coast n.s.w and it does need some tidying up from being a daily driver but pretty good con and also price is neg so lets see it go to good home i know some one wants it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71991-93-gts-t-93-fs/#findComment-1328147
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...