Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Powercruise in August is coming up and I'm really keen to get down there and have a crack on the drag strip, BUT...

I know nothing about what to do and stuff.

Is it scary knowing what to do and stuff? Do you just rock um and line up, then wait for the green, then go, then what? Its all so scary.

The other thing is setup, I have adjustable suspension, should I have it low all around with lots of movement so it can rock back (Its jacked up like a monster truck at the moment until the Defect is cleared)

I need some advice, I really wanna get some good times, in a stock R32 GTR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73084-drag-virgin-assistance-please/
Share on other sites

You line up for ages.

Then you get ushered to a car shaped spot where you stopand wait.

Then you get ushered to the start line - you can do a burnout in the water on the way if you like.

You creep forward till both white staging lights are lit.

The orange lights go.

Green light - go for it.

Keep suspension soft as you can.

Thanx for that man.

I think I better get down for a few runs before hand.

How hard is it to adjust the suspension? do u just take the wheel off then screw something? I haven't played with it yet.

Should I also drop the tire pressure? If so, to what?

depends what type of suspension it is. If they are adjustable coil overs, you'll need a tool called a c spanner. I dont know any other way of doing it.

You can purchase some at garage 13, $49 for a pair. http://www.garage-13.com/suspension.html

If this is your first time out, keep it simple. Don't worry about things like impressing the crowd wih a massive smokey burnout. If you stuff it, you'll look like a tosser. Trust me on that one :cheers:

As for suspension, 0 camber is good as you get the most surface area on the tarmac. It should be as soft as possible (without being stupid) on the rear as weight transfer on the launch will mean the car will squat and lay a bigger surface area of rubber on the tacmac resulting in better traction. Tyre pressure also will make a big difference. Drop the tyre pressures to make the side wall softer and allow more squat when you launch the car.

When you are lined up in the queue, mentally picture what you want to do. Picture the right rev range you want to launch at. Your ideal rev range will depend on the power , setup and tyres of the car. Generally, stiff suspension and high revs = wheel spin, too soft suspension and low revs = bog, stiff suspension and low revs = bog. A bit of wheel spin is better than bogging IMO.

Once you are called up to the line, you will see a patch of water. Cars on slicks and drag radials (some even with semi comps) will do a burnout in the water to get heat into the tyre to improve traction. If you're on street tyres, either do a very small burnout or not at all as a tyre which heats up too much is worse than a cold tyre as it is too plyable and won't get traction either.

After the burnout, if you do one move up to the starting line. There are 2 sets of lights there. The Xmas tree has 3 sets of lights. Set 1 (2 sets of white lights) are used to line you up at the 0 foot mark, set 2 (a set of yellow lights) are used for counting down to the green. The 3rd set is the green light.

You will move your car forward until you light up the first set of white lights. This means you are staged and ready to race.

From there, once both racers are staged, the yellow lights will come down and then eventually hit the green in which time it is time to go.

Keep in mind though, depending on the situation, the green lights don't mean you HAVE to launch. They are only important when you are racing in a 'head to head' situation. If you are simply setting a time, the green doesn't mean much. It simply means the timer is armed and ready to go. The timer will not start until you leave the line. You have about 6 inches to move before the timer actually starts.

From there, you're off and racing. Drag your way past the line and keep the foot to the floor past the line. The timing line has a laser about 60' before and 60' after the line which calculates your ET and terminal MPH. If you take your foot off the gas at the line, you will slow which gives a slower ET and MPH. By the time your brain works out you've crossed the line, you would have covered the 60' anyway so you can come off the gas and begin braking. Don't be sudden on the brakes either. Ease them on and apply more and more pressure as you slow.

Hope this info helps. Good luck with it. Let us know of the results when you get them.

Guest two.06l
Thanx for that guys, I certainly will post up my results. Might go pop it on a dyno first to let you know how much power it has (doesn't feel like much at the moment).

dont panic, as powercriuse use rolling starts with a bogan waving a flag!...it allows for them to use their discrection when determining the winner....(we got disqalified in the final for jumping the start)...biggst load of sh1t ive seen!

as Stace mentioned there is no Christmas tree, no water and no burnout. the reason for that is eastern creek circuit is not allowed to run ANY Drag racing event only WSID can do this so they have labelled the event as street racing not drag racing. if running a stock 32 just enjoy yourself. Powercruise is a great event for drivers

I had a field day at Powercruise Easter and will definitely be there for august

Cruise laps around the circuit is the most fun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...