Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have just installed one of these on my car, and it seems very good.

Be carefull how far you screw the adjustment nob in though - as I was gaining about 1 1/2 psi every quarter of a turn.

Hi, im new her, but have bought one of these valves. I need to now what is the best boost signal to use for feeding the valve. Seems like most of you are using the nipple on the compressor outlet (boost only). But in the instructions it tell you to use the same line as the bov (a vacuum "and" boost line). Will the valve work slightly dirrerently due to this feed line? Will one way work better than the other? Will the vacuum help close the ball faster than if it was setup on the boost only compressor nipple? The maker of these valves will be able to answer my question I hope. I mean he drew the pics/instructions using the bov line for a reason I would assume.

Thanks in advance.

Brad

hey, i bought one of these turbotech controllers and cant seem to get it to work...?

my mechanic conected it between the wastegate diaphram and a vaccum line going into the inlet manifold.

i have tried reversing the controller, connecting/disconnecting the solenoid but with no luck. the boost doesnt change even when completely screwed in...?

ive also heard of people saying theirs has a hole drilled into it but mine doesnt seem to?

my car is a mazda Luce so info is scarse at the best of times.

if someone or mark williams could explain where it goes on a car that isnt a skyline it would be much appreciated.

cheers Louis

ps the pics on the early pages dont work anymore (for me at least).

hey, i bought one of these turbotech controllers and cant seem to get it to work...?

my mechanic conected it between the wastegate diaphram and a vaccum line going into the inlet manifold.

i have tried reversing the controller, connecting/disconnecting the solenoid but with no luck. the boost doesnt change even when completely screwed in...?

ive also heard of people saying theirs has a hole drilled into it but mine doesnt seem to?

my car is a mazda Luce so info is scarse at the best of times.

if someone or mark williams could explain where it goes on a car that isnt a skyline it would be much appreciated.

cheers Louis

ps the pics on the early pages dont work anymore (for me at least).

If you don't have a hole in it, it won't work right, contact mark to fix this issue, these things should be sold 100% free from error.

Hi Alex

I have sent you an email as well. Dont be too concerned about not having a hole drilled in the unit. The main advantage of the vent hole is not realised until quite high boost. At low to moderate boost it wont make much difference that you will notice.

Im not sure I have even heard of your car model before..!

As long as the hose barb at right angle to teh controller goes to wastegate and the other to teh compressor thenm it shuld be fine if you have no solenoid in the mix. With all of the fiddling with it it is possible that the spring may have gottenm jammed somehow. Take the controller right out and remove the bolt (careful that the spring and ball does not fall away.) make sure the spring is loose and not stuck. Then putthe controller back together. To get it back to rougghly your cars stock, simply adjust the bolt in small amounts while blowing through the adjacent hose barb until you can only JUST blow through past the ball, lock the nut and reinstall...

CHeers

MArk

Did anyone have to get new vacuum hose to install this?

I kinda wanna leave the solenoid in the loop so I can have a switch for low/high boost. But between the t-valve nozzle, and the nozzle off the pipe after the intercooler, there is only about 0.5cm of hose. Ie. the hose is like 8cm long, but the nozzles are taking up most of that, so there is no slack inbetween to install the boost controller.

I couldn't get the hose off the t-valve either, brute force would break the hose its so stuck on.

Why is it so easy for everyone else >:

Edit: Got bro to help me. I wasn't using enough force. Another happy customer, works perfectly (at the original setting anyway which appears to be about 9-10psi - I'm not game to take it any higher without an FMIC)

Edited by bombastic
Hi Alex

I have sent you an email as well. Dont be too concerned about not having a hole drilled in the unit. The main advantage of the vent hole is not realised until quite high boost. At low to moderate boost it wont make much difference that you will notice.

Im not sure I have even heard of your car model before..!

As long as the hose barb at right angle to teh controller goes to wastegate and the other to teh compressor thenm it shuld be fine if you have no solenoid in the mix. With all of the fiddling with it it is possible that the spring may have gottenm jammed somehow. Take the controller right out and remove the bolt (careful that the spring and ball does not fall away.) make sure the spring is loose and not stuck. Then putthe controller back together. To get it back to rougghly your cars stock, simply adjust the bolt in small amounts while blowing through the adjacent hose barb until you can only JUST blow through past the ball, lock the nut and reinstall...

CHeers

MArk

the car runs about 9-10psi factory and i will be running around 14-15psi with the cooler set up. is this not high boost?

i've have already done everything you suggested with no luck.

i have also had my wastegate tested by a mechanic and it was fine.

the only hose coming from my wastgate goes into the inlet manifold....?

the only hose coming from the compressor goes back into the turbo...?

am i able to swap my controller for one with a hole as ive tried everything else and my mechanic said it must have a hole in order to be effective.

cheers Louis

Same here in my gtr34 !! Boost didn't increase above the standard level (0.9 bar) no matter how I adjusted !! hmmm. I've notice the difference is:

- Turbos spooled up slower if tighten the screw all the way (totally blocked the hole) => max boost is 0.85

- Turbos spooled up faster if losen the screw all the way (like open pipe) => max boost is 0.9

Sounds like the standard boost setting is not adjustable due to a restrictor some where or the design of the actuators ??

If any one knows about this problem in the gtr34, please help !! I really appriciated...

Cheers :)

Well installed it today and it could not have been easier.

Took me the whole of 3mins to install, including the time taken to pop the bonnet and zip up a couple of zippy ties.

Comes on boost definatly quicker than stock, and holds 10psi beautifully, in each gear.

Best bang per buck mod ever!

bleh i tried to install mine today, and when i drove the boost jumped to the end of the guage almost straight away, i think its because my cooler doesnt have a nipple where the stock one was and i plumbed the boost controller into the vacum line the blow off valve is on.

would this have caused it?

i nearly shat my pants aye haha, i put the stock one back on for now.

cheers

I am not sure, wife has the car atm, so cant run out and check.

But right at the back of the stock plenum at the top there should be a outlet, on both RB25DET's I've owned I've used it as a boost gauge feed.

If you have your stock BC hooked up, why not just use those lines?

i attached the turbo tech to the wastegate actuator line as per instructions, put a screw into the rubber hose that is attached to the plumback blow off valve inlet return hose and used the vacum line that the plumback blow off valve line uses.

im guessing that the BOV and turbo tech cant be both hooked up to the same vac line.

ill just get an exhaust shop to weld a nipple on my cooler pipe where the stock nipple was then go from there.

I got a question

stock R33 turbo, pod and 3" exhaust.

will running this boost controller, say at 9 or 10 psi, cause undue strain on my motor, box, diff....coz of the way it eliminates the 5psi run up, and also from your accounts, kicks in alot harder?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...