Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I installed a cold air partition over the weekend and took the car for its first good drive since tonight and it's not running right.

It seems to be missing intermittently at boost levels above .5 bar and is more noticeable around gear changes.

With normal gentle driving and gradually rolling on the power it seems fine but when I give it good stomp (70%+ throttle) from a steady cruse or standstill it builds boost, starts to accelerate then seems to cut ignition pop and fart a bit, shift a gear keep missing popping and farting and not making much power then pic up for a bit drop off again and so on.

I have double checked all the plugs, hoses etc but can't find anything amiss.

The only thing I can think of is that the colder air is giving a denser air fuel mix and therefore higher cylinder temps and the ignition system dose not have enough spark to ignite it.

It has always missed and popped a bit on gear changes and I have put it down to the ECU cutting ignition to protect the gear box. When I turn my Blitz DSBC off or on its lowest setting keeping boost under .5 bar it seems to run fine.

It my reasoning on track and I just need a spark plug change and a tune or is something horrible going on?

Yes I pulled the intercooler pipes and AFM out but I made sure I put it all back together properly. But I will double check it all. I also cleaned the mesh on the AFM as it had little bit of a build up on it but I made sure nothing went into the wire and I gently blew it out with compressed air.

I thought if it was a leak or AFM problem I would experience the problem on vacuum and at other loads. It still runs fine if I set the boost to .6 bar and only plays up over that.

I think cleaning the AFM with compressed air may have damaged it. :P Should only use contact cleaner, and even then be very careful.

Have you got a cold air duct feeding you new partition? If not, maybe not enough air is getting through to the induction system (ie: you are suffucating the engine).

Another theory is that the condensed air, you mentioned, is playing tricks on the ecu and is causing it to splutter. I remember my car didn't like the fmic, pod, 11psi boost and cold nights, until i replaced the ecu with a programmable one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • R32 HICAS, so long as the CU is not itself faulty, is easy to keep working enough for the PS. Just unplug the smaller of the two loom plugs, on the CU, like I have already said about 4000 times on this forum. This works with all the stock hardware, or with a lock bar, or with a complete removal. I know, because I have done all of them. OK, actually, I never put a lock bar on because why would you put a lock bar on when you can get rid of the whole lot, including the stupid tie rod ends?
    • Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
    • Oh, another question comes to mind though. What sort of shitty fuel are you feeding it. Mine, a turbo, has to be fed 98RON, so it doesn't ping itself to death. 98 in Oz is good, dense fuel with minimal oxygenated compounds. Meaning that the energy density is high, and if the O2 trim is working, you will get more MPG than with a lesser fuel. If you're using some sort of piss poor E10 blend with some other MBTE or other oxygenated additions, that could explain using more per mile.
    • I have no idea where the thump is coming from, it sounds like its from behind me but im not exactly sure. And it was the HICAS light that came on.   I think a complete delete is the route im going to go. Probably going to pick up the kit within the next month and get it installed. HICAS is just going to end up being a headache if I keep it.    Thanks you. 
    • Just putting this here for reference for other beginners. Similar to what I said above.  I learnt if you have a few dents that are fairly close to each other (within a couple of inches maybe 2-4 inches?) Use filler across them all and sand it all at once with the long block as opposed to fixing them seperately.  Will make life MUCH easier because you won't get stuck in the cycle that I did. I think doing it seperately there is some overlap (mean your whole repair zone might cover near the area of the other dent) and you start sanding near the other dent making a low spot.
×
×
  • Create New...