Jump to content
SAU Community

Gts does not hold boost

chrisgero

By chrisgero,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

chrisgero Contributor

chrisgero

Posted
Posted

Would anyone know what is happening?

I just got a monster intercooler professionally installed. When I up the boost to 14lb the car feels like it won't run the 14lb. My mechanic claims the car is not holding the boost, he also said he had another 2.5ltr GTS, was holding 14lb boost. The same mods, 3inch exhaust, panel filter and the 800 x 300 x 76mm intercooler.

He suggested that I get a piggyback system for about $700 and he would have it installed, just for fuel. What if I get a bigger fuel pump, could this solve the problem.

Has anyone had this problem before and what did you do to fix the problem, any tips.

Any suggestions.

:whip:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74558-gts-does-not-hold-boost/
Share on other sites
chrisgero Contributor

chrisgero

Posted
  • Author
Posted
PIggy back for fuel for $700? tell him to get lost for that price and save the extra 300 for a powerfc. I take it you dont have a boost gauge?

I do have a boost gauge, he even put his one on and he said it's not holding 14lb, he offered to get me a piggyback system installed for $700.

I also read other threads about getting the bigger fuel pump. The car before the service when i drove it slightly hard wouldn't spin, now i take off and drive it hard in 1st the thing screams. But it wont hold the boost, it feels as it is jerking up high revs.

carlo Veteran

carlo

Posted
Posted

Are you using the stock boost controller.. if you are then thats your problem. The stock boost controller is junk, mine did the same thing.

My solution was a Apexi AVC-R configured on a dyno. $700 for a piggy back ecu is a joke, it wont fix your issue and is a bandaid. Get your self a powerFC for $1000

Honestly.. Step 1. Go to a decent workshop and ask them about electronic boost controllers. Their is a few brands, such as the Apexi AVC-R, Turbosmart E-Boost & the Greddy one (forgot model).

Step 2. Have this installed by someone who has done it on a skyline before, that way they run it on a dyno to setup the controller correct. If you do all of this then you should not have any major issues and your car will be alot more smooth to drive.

Their is alot of workshops who can help with this, no doubt everyone will come along and recomend one. I installed my AVC-R my self and had Ben at unique Autosports configure it correctly. They also do other brands.

chrisgero Contributor

chrisgero

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for this info,

I will be looking for an electronic boost controller within the Sydney region. I got rid oy my first boost controller as a result of it not boosting, now this one boosts but it won't keep the power on 14lb, the car feels as if it is struggling to keep 14lb, like it's been held back as you are powering it on, no back firing.

One of my WRX mates told me to buy an electronic boost controller and i thought he was talking "Gibberish". I know now.

I will try this idea out,

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...