Jump to content
SAU Community

I dare you all..........

Tosh

By Tosh,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

Silver-Arrowz Grand Master

Silver-Arrowz

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by RoboPope

I dont mind what you get up to in private, so long as you are not ramming it down my throat. :(:P

The greeks have a lot to answer for, Nana Mouskouri for one thing

hehehe.... we don't ram around here. Minh likes to shove it and choke people with it. Most of us are on the recieving end.

XrSiSt Grand Master

XrSiSt

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by RoboPope

thank you... sorry to raise the tone of this thread but there seems to be a much bigger GTS scene over here than in the UK. what power / mods do you all tend to run out here?

Paul

I think the majority of us over her are just looking at the

200+rkw mark.. which is basically exhaust, cooler, filter, boost

controller, computer, fuel pump.. i think thats about it.. cause any

higher will result in big $$$..

You will get the few who make it past this mark.. off the top of my

head.. Merli? 270rkw?

I'm pretty sure its the same as over there as i've read a few

UK sites which basically recommend the same upgrade options.

What are u running Paul?

We must listen to Minh.. 400hp at the lips gives quite a bruise!

:bahaha:

RoboPope Rookie

RoboPope

Posted
Posted

Mine currently has filter, exhaust, decat etc and an fcon V. it pops out a sneak over 300bhp @ .78 bar (flywheel, but im not sure how to equate that to yours) with the injectors at 90%. It has a hybrid needle roller turbo from turbodynamics but i cant raise the bost pressure enough for that to have any real effect over the standard one yet

Jan 4th its booked in for a HKS fuel pump, Tomei injectors, HKS FMIC, HKS Steel head gasket and boost controller should make a bit of a difference once the boost is cranked up a bit, shall have to wait and see.

Must admit the cost has sort of put me off doing too much more though unless i can pick up a RB26 engine with some trick internals at a sensible price

It does put a smile on my face though :( any increase in power is directly equated to increase in size and duration of smile

Paul

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...