Jump to content
SAU Community

Adjustable (Upper) Control Arm problems


Recommended Posts

Hi All

Has anyone else had problems with the lock nuts coming loose on the Adjustable Upper Control Arms that JMS sell (for the front of a R32 )?

The inner locknuts on mine keep coming loose... it's happened twice now and I have only had them fitted for a week !!

Has anyone else got a set of them fitted?

thanks

James

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7714-adjustable-upper-control-arm-problems/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by meggala

you talking front or rear sorry I'm a bit dumb with suspension stuff but I have doen quite a bit of work on mine recently

opps forgot to add that important bit of info :mad:

Talking about the front

I rang them yesterday and they recon they havent heard of the problem before...

I was going to try some locktight on them tomorrow and see how it goes... and if that doesn't fix it them they can go back and I will just have to make do with the pedders Adj. bush kit fitted to the std arms.. unless someone can suggest some other option

(other than the UAS ones - as the review on AutoSpeed wasn't too favourable for their ones)

Originally posted by meggala

havent had that issue I would contact cause its not supposed to happen or use some locktight

cheers

Originally posted by JMS

Send it back to us so we can see if we can fix the problem if you dont have any luck with the Locktight. We havnt had any trouble with them yet  so yours is the first.  

Regards

Terry

JMS

Cheers Terry

Will do,

But my biggest problem is that I am off on holidays wednesday night (and am taking the car) so need something in the car (and something safe) cause I will be doing a lot of driving (with my family in the car) so I am in a bit of a spot - need to fix it by wednesday.. Off to Tassie on the ferry, so cannot delay our departure :(

With my old std arms in place I have almost 5mm play in both front wheels.. so they are not an option...

If only you were in Melbourne... or me me in Adelaide...

At this stage the only fix I can think of that I might have any chance of doing by wednesday is to go with the local pedders fitted kit :D

(or maybe the whiteline one is the same I think)

Unless someone in Melbourne would happen to have a couple of std upper control arms they can lend me for a couple of weeks?? :)

regards

James

Ozdat

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
×
×
  • Create New...