Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, now I've recently been having a few problems with my car since I had a PowerFC installed.

The short story is, got the PFC, had it tuned. Had issues with the stock fuel pump. There was no pressure. After this I had the fuel pump replaced with a high flow walbro item, and a SARD fpr installed (incorrectly). Didn't make as much power as I wanted it to.

After this, the car was again retuned and didn't make much more power. There was now lots of fuel down low, but nothing up top. ie, AFR's were 12:1, injectors close to 100% duty cycle, and boost was only at 11psi. :D

Car was good to drive still though. Felt better than before I had the PFC. I just wanted to up the boost. But couldn't because of the fuel issues.

I wasn't really happy. My tuner then suggested that my injectors were screwed, and that I needed new ones...This didn't sit right with me, so I decided to go to UAS get some power runs done and get a second opinion.

Today I took my car to Unique Autosports to have them check it out and give me a second opinion. Firstly, the car only made 188rwkW on their dyno (made 200rwkW on the other). Secondly the fuel pressure regulator wasn't installed properly and wasn't doing jack all. That is why the injectors had to be run high, and why the car was leaning out (running out of fuel).

Ben from Unique Autosports fixed it up. He made the fpr work properly, which saw 10:1 ratio's at 11psi.

He then upped the boost to 13psi, and retuned the car. Now the car is making 200.5rwkW, the injectors are only at 76% and the engine knock value is down to 22 max, when it was hitting 34 frequently and occasionally spiking to 60.

Three cheers for Ben from UAS.

dynoPowerFC_afr_web.jpg

dynoPowerFC_psi_web.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77406-unique-autosports-to-the-rescue/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Make sure you use the spherical bushes** on the lower arms, ifyou do that. ** at least, if not the whole replacement lower arm.
    • The tap for coolant flow control will be stuck open. It's not just the air door motor that dies.
    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
×
×
  • Create New...