Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1995 R33 Nissan Skyline GT-R for sale. Just under 100,000kms on the clock, immaculate condition throughout a well looked after car.

Factory features:

- Rare Midnight Purple colour

- Big Brembo brakes + ABS.

- 4 Wheel Drive and 4 Wheel Steer

- Power steering, electric windows

- Climate Control

- Original 17" forged alloy wheels

Aftermarket features:

- 2x 320 HP Nismo ball bearing RS580 turbos. (need rebuild, details further)

- 2x HKS adjustable cam gears

- 2x K&N air cleaners

- 2x 80mm air flow meters.

- 3” Dump pipes, 2 ½” down pipes, 3” cat back system.

- Apexi PowerFC full engine management unit (dyno tuned)

- Huge 600x300x100 polished intercooler

- Big single plate brass button clutch

- GReddy Type-S blow-off valve

- 6x 700 CC SARD injectors

- 700 HP bosch intank fuel pump

- Boost controller

- GReddy oil catch can

- Clear NISMO indicators

Interior features:

- NISMO 320k/hr tacho and center guages.

- Apexi EL Boost guage mounted on GReddy A-Pillar

- GReddy shift knob

- GReddy turbo timer

- Factory Nissan GTR floor matts front and rear

- Retrimmed quality leather around gearstick and handbrake.

- Audio system consists of MP3 headunit and Alpine 6 ½” splits in front

Over $20,000 in parts, labour and tuning.

Other notes:

- Regulary serviced every 5000kms with MOTUL oils and genuine filters.

- Major service done which includes new GReddy timing belt, oil and water pump, all accessory belts and fluids.

- New oil in all drivetrain including gearbox and diffs.

- Engine has good compression in all cylinders.

Turbo details:

One turbo has a recent noisy bearing, I bought the turbos from a fresh rebuild from a workshop in Sydney (Precision), unfortunatly the workshop has since been found to do a lot of “less then standard” rebuilds

Got one quote for $300/$400 per turbo to replace bearings so I will take off a FURTHER $1000 from the -agreed- sale price to cover the cost of a rebuild or a new turbo setup.

Was going to rebuild them myself but figured I would leave it up to the new owner, you could change to slightly bigger turbos again, maybe even a big single conversion, everything else you need to run the turbo setup at a high level is already on the car, and you'll have another $1000 for whatever you decide.

Power details:

Last dyno tune car made a lazy 234kw (315hp) at all 4 wheels (approx 280rwkw) on 1 bar boost (14psi)

Would now be around 260kw at all 4 wheels (over 300rwkw) still with a conservative tune and boost level of 1.2bar (18psi)

A stock GTR will make around 180kw at all 4. This car has all the parts now to push it further if the new owner desired.

Any questions serious buyers please phone Brett on 0413 382 678

Mon-fri (4pm till 9pm)

Weekends anytime.

No time wasters please, NO TEST DRIVES.

5.jpg

8.jpg

Full set of pics can be found at:

http://members.optusnet.com.au/bjrose/sale/

Now $45,000 ono.

Also available! my prestige plates "SAY BYE". Black on gold, slimline front, -never- fitted to any car. Was going to keep these but if anyone wants them i'll sell them at very cheap price for plates like this, $2500.

plates.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78527-fs-r33-gtr-modded/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

not for another skyline. Maybe a s15 spec R.

price is now $38k neg.

Please see the car sales ad for full details.

http://carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!c...r...rch_distance=25

Ive had my mechanic pull the turbos off and inspect them and he said he couldnt see anything wrong, put it all back together and now everything seems fine, but it couldnt have been the turbo problem he first thought as he said they would sieze up within a week but went for months, at times the noise wasnt even there.

so the turbos are all good, any professional inspection is welcome. If any -serious- buyers want I can take them for a drive to confirm it.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...