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In need of some advice.

morlock

By morlock,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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morlock Collaborator

morlock

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys.

I've had a recent injection of cash and want to make my R33 GTST more reliable on the track.

The car has just hit 100,000Ks and I will be doing the major service.

Car is standard except for:

GTR FMIC

3 " exhaust

HD Ceramic Clutch

DBA slotted front rotors

E-boost series 1 (running 12psi)

HKS superflow filter

Unichip piggyback ECU

Whiteline adj sway bars

Last dyno result was 265hp and I am not really looking to chase more power at this stage.

Can the standard turbo reliably run 12psi with frequent track duties considering the age of the vehicle and amount of k's should I be looking at rebuilding this? I am asking this because i have been looking at the GCG highflow but don't want to upgrade fuel pump or injectors at this stage as I don't really desire any more power, just want rock solid reliability. I don't want the turbine wheel to strip blades and cause engine damage!

My proposed track upgrades are:

Power FC + Hand Controller

Tien Super Street Coilovers

ARC Oil Cooler kit

PWR replacement aluminium radiator

Braided brake lines (Nismo?)

SplitFire Ignition coil packs (mine are showing a lot of wear)

GCG Highflow Turbo (see question above. Is this necessary?)

Things im not sure about to include during the 100,000km service are:

Heavy duty timing belt (Is this worth investing in for my power figures?)

HKS exhaust Cam Pulley (as above)

I know that the head gasket has been replaced by CRD in the last 2 years.

Is there anything else im missing here?

Sorry for the long post.

Cheers

Andrew

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Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
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Umm, it's done 100k (probably more like 150-200) and you're not going to replace the timing belt??? You should.

If your coild packs aren't breaking down and causing misfiring then why replace them? I say wait until they die.

I'd consider doing the fuel pump anyway. Reliability mod. Get a 2nd hand GTR pump.

Oil cooler would be a good idea, radiator probably not necessary at current power levels.

If you are happy with the power level then wait until the turbo dies. It probably will at some stage, but maybe not for a while. After death, then go GCG highflow. Either that or sell your current one and buy a dead one for them to rebuild/high flow to offset the cost.

My R34 has no brake issues but I understand R33's do get some fade. I don't know if braided brake lines help there but I would think that it would be just as effective and much cheaper just to replace the ones you have with the same spec. Do you bleed your brakes often?

Maybe some other suspension work should be considered? Caster kit? Camber kit? HICAS lock?

morlock Collaborator

morlock

Posted
  • Author
Posted

"Umm, it's done 100k (probably more like 150-200) and you're not going to replace the timing belt??? You should."

I am going to replace the timing belt...just wondering if it is worth getting a heavy duty one or not?

"If your coild packs aren't breaking down and causing misfiring then why replace them? I say wait until they die."

The coild packs do break down sometimes at high rpm. I want the engine to run reliably at high rpm.

"I'd consider doing the fuel pump anyway. Reliability mod. Get a 2nd hand GTR pump."

Thanks for this bit of advice. I will add this to the list.

"Oil cooler would be a good idea, radiator probably not necessary at current power levels."

The reason i want the radiator is the current one is quite dirty and rusted. My heater core has already rusted through (currently bypassing it) and i think it may be only time before the radiator springs a leek. Do you think i should just get the stock one cleaned and checked?

"If you are happy with the power level then wait until the turbo dies. It probably will at some stage, but maybe not for a while. After death, then go GCG highflow."

Will this potentially cause me to have to rebuild the motor....this is something i want to avoid. I've heard stories of turbine bits getting sucked back up the manifold and causing internal damage.

"My R34 has no brake issues but I understand R33's do get some fade. I don't know if braided brake lines help there but I would think that it would be just as effective and much cheaper just to replace the ones you have with the same spec. Do you bleed your brakes often?"

Yeah i do get fade after breaking down from 140km/hr to 80 km/hr (rough figures) for turn 2 at eastern creek. but this is probably just the breaking hardware. I bleed the brakes everytime i change the pads.....which is quite often.

"Maybe some other suspension work should be considered? Caster kit? Camber kit? HICAS lock?"

Yeah if i don't layout 2k for the GCG highflow. I was going to get the Nicmo GT Pro LSD (1.5 way), hicas lockbar and camber kit.

Thanks heaps for your comments so far. Very Helpful.

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted
"Umm, it's done 100k (probably more like 150-200) and you're not going to replace the timing belt??? You should."

I am going to replace the timing belt...just wondering if it is worth getting a heavy duty one or not?

"If your coild packs aren't breaking down and causing misfiring then why replace them? I say wait until they die."

The coild packs do break down sometimes at high rpm. I want the engine to run reliably at high rpm.

"I'd consider doing the fuel pump anyway. Reliability mod. Get a 2nd hand GTR pump."

Thanks for this bit of advice. I will add this to the list.

"Oil cooler would be a good idea, radiator probably not necessary at current power levels."

The reason i want the radiator is the current one is quite dirty and rusted. My heater core has already rusted through (currently bypassing it) and i think it may be only time before the radiator springs a leek. Do you think i should just get the stock one cleaned and checked?

"If you are happy with the power level then wait until the turbo dies. It probably will at some stage, but maybe not for a while. After death, then go GCG highflow."

Will this potentially cause me to have to rebuild the motor....this is something i want to avoid. I've heard stories of turbine bits getting sucked back up the manifold and causing internal damage.

"My R34 has no brake issues but I understand R33's do get some fade. I don't know if braided brake lines help there but I would think that it would be just as effective and much cheaper just to replace the ones you have with the same spec. Do you bleed your brakes often?"

Yeah i do get fade after breaking down from 140km/hr to 80 km/hr (rough figures) for turn 2 at eastern creek. but this is probably just the breaking hardware. I bleed the brakes everytime i change the pads.....which is quite often.

"Maybe some other suspension work should be considered? Caster kit? Camber kit? HICAS lock?"

Yeah if i don't layout 2k for the GCG highflow. I was going to get the Nicmo GT Pro LSD (1.5 way), hicas lockbar and camber kit.

Thanks heaps for your comments so far. Very Helpful.

I don't think heavy duty timing would be necessary at that power level but if it's not much more $ then do it.

Coil packs - might as well then.

Radiator - getting the stock one refurbished may be a lot cheaper and will be like new. I'd Get a heater core from a wreck too, but that's just me. Replace your thermostat and radiator hoses while your at no matter which way you go.

I've heard of turbo failure doing this on RB26's only and even then it's so rare that people known for vast amounts of experience haven't seen it and think it's impossible. I heard - through these forums - of it twice, both on RB26.

I don't know enough about R33 brakes to advise you there. Try the Suspension and Braking forum on here.

Mmm, Nismo 1.5way would be nice. I want one. SAU NSW members get 10% off at GCG $1950 list price minus 10% = $1755. Up to you.

morlock Collaborator

morlock

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for your help mate. You've told me what i needed to know.

I won't bother with the highflow and i'll go the 1.5 way lsd instead.

I'll get the radiator hoses etc replaced at the same time but i think ill still get the Aluminium radiator...just cause there is nothing like a nice piece of shiny aluminium in the engine bay to brighten things up.

I'll start another thread on the braking q's

Cheers again.

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