Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

my passengers power window is stuck! and its stuck open!

doesn't wanna close!

it was playing up before like it would work on some car starts and not on others, but now, over the last 20 or so times i started the car, the window doesn't wanna work!

and its stuck open!

any ideas as to what i could do to get it up before ripping the door apart?

its so annoying :P

thanx! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7948-power-window-stuck/
Share on other sites

coco: Join the club mate its frustrating i know.

I bought my car almost 4mths ago, when i first got it everything was 100%. About 1mth into it the driver-side window would sorta work when it wanted too. I'd just give a gentle whack to the electric window switch/buttons on the driver-side door and it would "all of a sudden" start working again and/or open/close my door and it would work.

But now 2mths later my driver-side door just refuses to work (luckily its closed completely). I've taken the 2 little circuit boxes out and had a look at them, the 1 with the faulty switch has afew dirty looking solder joints on it which i suspect is what the problem is but im yet to find a replacement.

(Gonna try JustJap tomorrow when they re-open).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7948-power-window-stuck/#findComment-115831
Share on other sites

:P

argh its so annoying!

thanks for the input all.

looks like i gotta take the door apart tommorow morning coz nothing seems to be working.

far out, i got work in the afternoon and goin shopping with a girl in the morning... can't park the car with one window down!!!

bloody hell...grrrRRR~!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7948-power-window-stuck/#findComment-115939
Share on other sites

Fixed my problem today and it took me all of 20mins and $0.

The problem was 3 loose wires that connect to the black box motor inside the door frame. I put them back in and wrapped about 4 metres of tape around it to secure them in place then put it through its paces of about 30 up/downs and it didn't miss a beat.

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7948-power-window-stuck/#findComment-116388
Share on other sites

omg - well i kinda fixed mine... well sorta...

me and a buddy used an external 12v supply and connected it straight to the motor for the windows... wihtout doing so, the windows were pretty much locked down and unable to be moved up, but connecting an external 12v power to the motor allowed the window to be pulled up with alot of difficulty.

weird though, coz when using a multimeter to check to see if current was running through the existing connection, it showed a smooth approx. 12v or so. meaning that with all original connections there should be no reason why the windows dont work. so why the switch didn't work was beyond us? the window was only moveable when using an external 12v power source.

but anyway, my windows are now about 98% up, without only a few millimeters of gap for rain water to get it, but luckily i have the rain slats over the windows. :P

good thing i didn't take those ugly slats off... even though they're all sh!tty and faded. basically after all this bordem, my windows are almost up and completely stuck! at least i can park my car at places now. :D w00t~!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7948-power-window-stuck/#findComment-116500
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
    • Ohhh I see lol To be honest the main reason why I wanted to start modding is because of a business trip to Japan and Indonesia. I saw many cool and modded cars all throughout in these countries, especially Japan. I myself am of Chinese+Japanese nationality and when living in china (never lived in Japan js my dad side lol) I remember staring at these cars pass by with their loud tacky exhausts and insane wide body kits. And when I went back to Japan, I got even more invested even asking people about their cars and why they modded. Most gave similar answers to what you said but funny enough one guy just said that he saw the need for speed movie being filmed once in Tokyo I think near Shibuya Crossing and got inspired to tune and mod. After that I just started to fantasize on owning a car like that. Also tbh I prefer the R32 over the R34 it's just the R34 is more iconic lol (also apparently better aftermarket support than the R32) and my only goal really is just to make the car mine and make it fun to drive. As much as I love my Cayenne it's pretty bland to drive. Sure the interior is nice and pretty, gives you attention yada yada but I've wanted to experience what it is like to have a car that is truly yours. I suppose thats the goal so far. Haha if you find where I'm from, then sure. Ill help you out on your next "financial decision"
×
×
  • Create New...