Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ok once again i have bought something i no longer need. Heres the run down

For sale is my Hawk EC21 EMS. head on over to EFI hardware to check out full specs. basically it is a complete management system like microtech, autronic, motec etc but much cheaper because it's australian made.

it tunes in 125rpm increments and has a higher resolution tuning map than any other ECU out there (perhaps bar megasquirt) for very fine adjustments. it does closed loop for good fuel economy also. i only know information on the rb30 setup but it can be used on any engine.

i will include with the package:

- Control unit

- Full loom to suit Z18T 4 cylinder (just so you can steal plugs off it if you're using it on an RB30) which even comes with the three critical relays so you can just wire up about 10 wires into your existing loom and it will run.

- Water temp sensor, ECU is calibrated to this. you can calibrate your standard RB30 sensor fine also if you desire.

- Air temp sensor, calibrated also

- 3 bar (30psi) map sensor for big boost applications

- Delco TPS which you may or may not use, you can calibrate your standard TPS to work fine if you desire

- ECU-computer comm cable

- CD with wiring diagrams, software and a full manual which describes every detail about the functions of the ECU

- A base map which is suitable for a modified VLT running standard injectors. this will cut tuning times drastically saving you dyno time and money. all cold start and accel enrichment details are in there already.

it is a very versatile ECU and i have played with the software which is very easy to use, and has a live-screen dashboard readout which is extremely useful.

looking for offers around $750 which is what i paid for it.

pm me or reply here, or ring me on 0421859091

cheers

shanon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79652-fs-stand-alone-management-software/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...