Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I Have a fully built rb30 short motor with only the best products used and alot of extra care taken in the build. It is ideally setup up for a rb30 into a gtr as some of the extra bolt holes on the bottom have been drilled to suite the adapter plate and it can come with a N1 oil pump modded to run the external pcikup needed for a rb30 in a 4wd setup...(Can supply adapter plate also if needed for 4wd) However these small mods will have no ill effect if run as a rwd motor..... Mods as follows:

Tear dropped and balanced, ground and linished Crank, with grub screws, the journals have been machined down 10thou to ensure they are perfectly round and have the perfect clearances to run 550kw+, both the main and big ends are equipped with ACL race series bearings, and the crank girdle has been shot peened....

O ringed/ torque plate honed and line honed block, the girdle has been tunnel squared, and the deck skimmed to ensure it is perfectly square for the o-rings, engine has brass welsh plugs....crank girdle has brand new nissan bolts which are actually the rb26 items so they are 12mm not 10mm and are longer also, and the crank has the jun collar on the front for the latter model oil pumps. Also the block has been drilled for the oil pressure line to the turbo. And has had the hole drilled and tapped for the extra idler needed for a twin cam head. Has new rear main seal, and cover modded to suit the twin cam belt!!

REV forged 4340 chomoly I beam con rods with arp 2000 rod bolts...Arias 20”thou forged pistons with floating gudgeon, they are the lower silicon content items which are better for higher horsepower and boost pressures...they also have the spiral gudgeon clips which are a better design than some of the earlier circlip designs.

Compression with stock rb26 sits at 8.4:1 with stock headgasket....

This engine is all wrapped up in plastic at the moment, and has only just been assembled this week. this was a very meticulous build as It was going in my GTR which I was hoping to achieve over 500KW at the wheels on c16 with so it was built very strong..... The reason for sale is that the car can no longer be a weekend toy due to financial restraints of opening a new business, I have to return it to a more sensible daily driver.... The cost of this engine as a walk off the street customer at a performance shop would be around 10g..

PRICE: $6500 ONO Plus freight, can organise freight for Australia wide....

Please all genuine people PM me and I will give you a call to discuss!!!!

Regards,

Daniel

Thanks SK, I was hoping people would appreciate that I am actually providing a really good deal for someone...

Will post some pics on Tues or Weds as I am currently out of town, sorry for the wait will be done asap...

Thanks,

Daniel

  • 1 month later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...