Jump to content
SAU Community

PFC HELP reward offered possibly alcoholic (If that is your thing)


Recommended Posts

IIRC, you cant "turf out" the ALSD without dramas. They have different cradles, and there are the ALSD computer issues to worry about. I seem to recall Sam had problems with her car due to a non-ALSD fitted in a car originally equipped with ALSD, and we were told NOT to swap to a standard LSD when our ALSD needed repairs, due to the high costs and complications of doing so.

PFC works fine with ALSD, it just needs "a trick" that Gavin is refusing to disclose, for obvious reasons ;) I'd be having a yap with him (details on http://www.autech.net.au), but erins car has ALSD and definately spins both wheels - I have several videos to prove it :P (at willowbank... no really)

As well as that, the SLIP light on the dash comes on with wheelspin, so the ALSD computer is obviously doing its thing. I believe the ALSD light (which is a second light) only comes on when there is a problem with the ALSD not working as it should, although I have no idea about the conditions it trips out on error with.

Moral of the story? PFC DEFINATELY works with ALSD, but requires "a trick" :P

Why does EVERYBODY keep telling me to just change the ALSD?!? I think it's good - I like it! :chairshot

Looks like I'm off to Gav with PFC in-hand.... YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY!!!!!! :crazy:

Why does EVERYBODY keep telling me to just change the ALSD?!? I think it's good - I like it!  :chairshot  

Looks like I'm off to Gav with PFC in-hand.... YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!  :crazy:

I suggest you do.. It can be done, but Gav would prefer not to tell people how as that gives his little secret away.

My car is proof that it can be done. I've had the pfc for over a year and never had any problems.

$500 for a secondhand diff, Umm I think I'm going to get a kazz or nismo joby for about $1000, bloody money pit!! I hope I see the light at the end of the tunnel one day.

Ok, now you owe me $10 for viewing it without my permission. HAHA.

Yes, I got different cams now, the ones I had in there were abit violent at about 7000rpm, I cant seem to change the gear as fast as the car revs to 9000 from 7000, maybe I'm a crappy driver, but anyway, it getting a retune as the cams are different and the 660cc injects are out of duty cycle. So yes the car, is getting looked at and a few more dollars tip into it before my brother gtr gets on the road.

What do you think of my factory looking set up Erin. Now the car shines from within.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...