Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i brought a 2nd Hand HKS cooler a few weeks ago and its got a 600x300x70 tube/fin core in it and i was wondering how much it would cost to get a bar/plate core put in it.

Does anyone knows of a rough price and where i could get it done?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8161-tubefin-to-barplate/
Share on other sites

Why?

A tube and fine core of that size is good for 500hp or so, a bar and plate core will cool better but be more of a restriction and with the core that size you will have plenty of cooling.

A core will cost about 500+ the welding so another 150 maybe

from what i know, the core is the entire section between the end tanks which cools the air. If you wanted to change the core you would have most likely wasted your money purchasing the intercooler in the first place. Do some more research on the subject and see what you find.

Mick.

I wouldn't bother with the bar and plate conversion, if you want one then I'm sure you could swap your existing one for it. As it has been pointed out the bar and plate provide better cooling at the cost of airflow, therefore they are primarily used for circuit racing, if this is not your aim then I would suggest sticking to the tube and fin.

See'ya:burnout:

I, too, went bar and plate. 600x300x75 and rated to 650hp+ with only a 2psi drop, cost only $800 new.

As for a recore on HKS, you could try someone like Ice Performance, bit of a drive I spose. Do you have any performance shops in Ballarat?

I agree with GTS-t VSPEC, either swap it or sell the HKS and just buy a bar and plate. HKS have a good name, and you could probably get your money back, or maybe enough to buy a new bar and plate coola. It would most probably be the cheaper option, rather than a rebuild. Unless of course the core in yours is stuffed?

Bar & Plate = cools better

Tube fin = flows alot better

As meggala said, why do hks, trust etc design & sell tube & fin plates?...because its way more effective on a street car then to just say a 10sec car which needs colder air.

Most street cars are more designed towards mid-range torque rather then bottom or top end, & when you gunning it you need the air faster to the engine, but then again its debatable.

The colder the air the slower it moves, which also adds more Pressure drop.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...