Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all, i just went to get a quote for installing a frount mount on my '94 GTS25t, and the guy at the shop told me that if i wanted to up the boost to around 12psi i would have to most likely get a new computer as the stock ones dont handle the boost to well... especially once they hit 5000rpm apparently the car acts as if it hits a brock wall... and goes all wacko?? .... anyone know or heard about this... and would it be safe to up the boost 2 12psi without a new computer???

- regards JT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82260-new-computer-needed-for-higher-boost/
Share on other sites

Yes its true.

Upping the boost with standard management takes the ecu into a rich and retarted area of the fuel and ignition maps.

You basically, just get flats spots if you increase boost with standard management.

With an aftermarket ecu you can up the boost and tune the entire map to pick up more response and power throughout the entire rev range then compared to the factory ecu.

Most people here would agree that the PowerFC that can be purchased sub 1K delivered from Japan, would be best value and offer the most factory type reliability and drivability.

Wolf 3D also do plug in ECU for the Skyline at $1395 with hand controller.

It comes down to what the tuner can tune best.

You don't need to run 12 psi... get a bleed valve or electronic boost controller and run around 11 psi and you won't hit rich and retard...

if you want a cheap way to lean out your air fuel ratios get an Apexi AFC...

I have an EBC and SAFC and am running about 10.5psi no problems...

no point running more through the stock turbo as you won't see that much more power...

yeh i wasnt exactly speficing to up the boost to 12 psi... i just mentioned to him i wanted hi and low... and he pretty much said yeh high no good with stock ecu.... so nick u reckon running round 10psi would have no worries with stock ecu yeh?

I don't have any problems at all... and my friend has his at 13psi and doesn't have any issues either... there are alot of reasons why people have flat spots, missfires etc and only some of the time is it to do with the stock ecu's overboost protection...

what I am trying to say is that if you already have tired coils or worn plugs or some other undiagnosed problem, upping the boost may expose the problem but is not always the cause of the problem... make sense?

Yer all sounds true from what i have heard you don't really want to go much past 10psi with the standard turbo's anyway, don't forget they are 11 years old unless they have been replaced so they have properly already had a far bit of punishment but i would recommend the the fmic you will be able to turn the boost up a little and it will be safer with the intercooler. I am running wolf 3D i thing it is great all depends were you want to tune you car and what they use my tuner was better at wolf so thats what i went for

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dredgggggeeee time; I have recently finally started driving the car. It sat for so long that the fuel tank gave birth to rust sludge and blocked my lift pump sock and one of my walbro 460's and left grime, rust chunks and muck all through the surge tank and system. I decided to commit and pull the trigger on an oem r32 gtr fuel tank and Frenchys twin 460 / sender / surge tank hanger combo and all new larger lines and fittings etc, also boost doc heater hose kit / new heater core and a heap of other bits and shits like wideband sensor installed in the dump and Syltech iacv + lines and all wired and added to current tune. now having lightly driven it a couple times without issue, I can happily report on the hta3076 in its current tune. still no boost control switched on, 20psi gate springs, car makes 22psi at 3200rpm in 6th gear with 30-50% TPS from cruise at 100kmh. Going by the old graph, this means it should be making 300-325whp at the same numbers above. Very very responsive setup under true road driving loads. all that's left for the build is body loom + PDM, finish the remote aircon setup, install carbon fibre parts and go for full tune and 30psi. the 315 rear tyres are now performing like they're 195's, wheel spin in any gear at almost any rpm, whereas my previous setup hooked up in 3rd no issue, albeit Nt01's back then / RB25 5spd vs (new) old date r888r's Z34 6spd now, + obviously all the support upgrades I listed in the quoted post above. car sits at 1-3psi on cruise at 100kmh, expectations totally exceeded and I'm beyond stoked with all this so far. IMG_4848.mov
    • I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha. 
    • Can a moderator please move this into the right category.. I've accidently put this into racing build thread 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Being a manual, we very quickly ordered new R34 gearbox (From Nissan) and remaining parts from Kudos motorsports. Would highly recommend the team there. Ultra helpful and quick to share advice and upgrades. We are in the middle of taking the Auto out (Genuine 94,000/kms) and putting the Manual in this weekend. Part 2 of the build will include likely a Plazaman Intercooler and Plenium, Hks Exhaust with Tomei Dump (ordered).
×
×
  • Create New...