Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I have the following parts for sale from a R32 GTS4 Skyline, all prices plus freight.

Parts are in Brisbane, :

Left hand headlight - bug eye version, perfect condition - $80 ono..REDUCED

Front driveshafts left and right- SOLD

Front propellor shaft (connects gearbox to front diff) - $50 ono..REDUCED

Front subframe - $115 ono. REDUCED

Front swaybar - 21 mm, same as GTR - $65 ono.

Front hubs - with curved upper link, no discs. - $150 pair ono.REDUCED

Steering rack - in good condition, tierods feel good. - $220 ono.SOLD

Rear subframe , subframe bushes removed!, this is the most expensive/time consuming part done already. ready for new bushes - nismo/Noltec. - $195 ono.REDUCED

R32 GTS 4 RB20DET - silver top, from GTS4. block, complete head, inlet manifold, injectors & coilpacks, good condition. Was intended for RB24 rebuild. Spare incomplete head with only half valves - good to practice head grind on. - $475 ono. SOLD

R32 GTS 4 Gearbox, 5 spd manual with transfer case. In good condition. - $575 ono. SOLD

Stephen

P.S. suspension parts/light/driveshafts are the same as a GTR.

Edited by gts4diehard

front driveshafts look in good condition. cv joints feel okay, when rotating thru full range of movements by hand. looks to be original cv boots on shafts. splines are straight. bearing in front hubs feel good, so dont think the car they come off has done too many kms. Shafts are leftovers from a front cut.

Stephen

same dimensionally, they look exactly the same but not they do not have the same ratios inside, due to the larger amount of torque that gtr has. could give an acceleration improvement I would think...

Stephen

mate, the incomplete head, does it have lifters in it, and what sort of condition are they in? ie. not rattling or leaking down?

would you be willing to sell them seperatly, and for how much.

Cheers

Ive got a stuffed rb20det head with everything, bar the exhaust camshaft, and 2 exhaust valves....

lemme know what u want for it by pm, otherwise it goes in the bin :cheers:

does the front sway bar bolt on to r32 gts-t ?

im also lookin for a 32 gtr rear sway bar if anyone has one.

thanks ;)

dorry not sure about that. the bars on gsts and gts4 attach differently to front hubs, but they may be the same bar with diff end fittings which could be removed and swapped.

Stephen

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...