Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 98 Stagea is nearing 100,000kms and so looking at replacing the timing belt and water pump as well as a general service.

I have been quoted by a Nissan dealer (in Perth) that to do a basic service (96,000kms service), change the timing belt and water pump would be around $800. Is this too expensive or about right for the work to be done.

I don't have the abilitiy to do the replacement myself, unfortunately.

I assume that I shoudl also get the bearings and seals replaced at the same time (following advice from other threads).

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Cheers, Al

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82718-timing-belt-replacement/
Share on other sites

Hi guys, as previously posted I only replaced the timing belt. There was NOTHING wrong with the water pump or the tensioner or the idler pulleys. There was no seal that needed replacing. I have done 5 Skylines and never replaced a water pump, tensioner, idler pulley.... I just needed to do the cam belt. I still have one that has done 180,000 k's and it still has the original water pump, tensioner idler etc etc

The 100,000 k service is "replace cam belt" not replace water pump, not replace cambelt tensioner. By all means get them to check it, but 99% of the time it won't need replacing.

:)

Thanks SydneyKid

So really it is a case of replace the other parts if they need to be replaced but otherwise there is no real point. I guess the other posts are all thinking replace everything in the one hit since the labour cost is high to pull it apart.

Just going to get the basic service now at 96,000kms and then get the timing belt changed next service and they can check the other items - if they need replacing will do so otherwise leave them.

Cheers, Al

Thanks SydneyKid

So really it is a case of replace the other parts if they need to be replaced but otherwise there is no real point.  I guess the other posts are all thinking replace everything in the one hit since the labour cost is high to pull it apart.

Just going to get the basic service now at 96,000kms and then get the timing belt changed next service and they can check the other items - if they need replacing will do so otherwise leave them.

Cheers, Al

Having seen what a broken timing belt can do :-( I suspect the other way around would be good.. ie I tend to change them before 100,000k's, not after..

But I agree with Sydneykid, the other stuff virtually never needs changing - so shop around and get a good price for the belt change (I'd guess that somewhere in the $400's would be about right...).

Edit: Just in case you don't have it, I've attached the R34 maintenance handbook - I think it would be a safe assumption to apply the same to the stagea.

Ian

R34_Scheduled_Maintenance_Handbook.pdf

  • 4 weeks later...

My advice .If You change the timing belt always change seals.They cost few bucks and if they start leaking then You have to take everything off ,timing belt as well.Bit big job to replace seals.

If You ask in Japan they always in 99% changed water pump with timing belt.Probably because is a easy job with timing belt ,and if You pull out WP and open/brake then You can see turbine condition .In some cases is good to change specialy in hot areas.Usually are WP changed when they are leaking ,but its not always case to change WP.

And tensioner pully depence how much it cost.If its not expensive up to Yu...

Timing belt manufacturer recomended timing belt change on 80000kms.

Edited by familka gtr

When my old S1 R33 had this done, cost me $1000, but tensioner was stuffed, yes stuffed, did not spin at all, i still have it :( and got the N1 pump for $50 so thought why not, BUT I also had a tune and a full serivce and some other bits and peices done too.

My advice .If You change the timing belt always change seals.They cost few bucks and if they start leaking then You have to take everything off ,timing belt as well.Bit big job  to replace seals.

If You ask in Japan they always in 99% changed water pump with timing belt.Probably because is a easy job with timing belt  ,and if You pull out WP and open/brake  then You can see turbine condition .In some cases is good to change specialy in hot areas.Usually are WP changed when they are leaking ,but its not always case to change WP.

And tensioner pully depence how much it cost.If its not expensive up to Yu...

Timing belt manufacturer recomended timing belt change on 80000kms.

The thing to always keep in mind is that good Japanese mechanics charge like brain surgeons. And bad Japanese mechanics are hopeless and charge like lawyers. The costs of parts is cheap compared to the cost of labour, that's why the Japanese have so much bolt on stuff. It lowers the cost if you have a good mechanic and saves the stuffups if you have a bad one.

That is simply not the case in Australia, so I don't buy parts I don't need just to maybe save on labour later. I don't reckon it's cheaper, because where do you stop? If I change the water pump, then I should change the camshaft oil seals. I should change the cam cover gaskets too. While I have the camshafts out changing the oil seals, I should change the valve stem seals. etc etc

When I change the cambelt I check the other stuff and if its OK, then I just change the cambelt.

:( cheers :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...