Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

believe it or not if you head down to superchear auto they have the part number listed there, i think its in teh ferodo catalogue. but if you grab the part number from there all the part numbers NOT letters interchange with each other.

i found this out today when i was at work (super cheap auto) if you have any more trouble gimme a yell and ill call em up and grab it for ya.

Going that you have the bigger engine, which brakes do you have on the car?  The stocko ones or say r32 or something?

I've got the stock ones... Should I upgrade, but would that imply that I will also need to do a 5 stud conversion?? :D - then if that was the case... what's involved in doing that conversion? Would R33 GTR (Brembos) fit?? :lol:

did you have any luck finding the part number for those brakes pads? i called up and got the part numbers for Ferodo. All you need to do is disregard the first two letters and use the numbers unless you want ferodo pads and then use the numbers.

fronts = DB 1148

Rears = DB 1144

I think the bendix part number is:

fronts = DB 1148 AD

rears = DB 1144 AD

there for Bendix Advance pads. So infact the part number for Bendix is interchangeable. Bosch part numbers are DP instead of the DB if you wanted them. but i found after heavy braking the bosch pads turn fairly ordinary very fast, and create alot of dust.

I use ferodo's on the front of my 180 and Bendix advance on the rear. i found it is a good combination, i have the more expensive pads on the rear because i drift it, and there better for lock ups. Either way they are fine.

i have also found the the Bendix pads do not create as much dust.

did you have any luck finding the part number for those brakes pads? i called up and got the part numbers for Ferodo. All you need to do is disregard the first two letters and use the numbers unless you want ferodo pads and then use the numbers.

fronts = DB 1148

Rears = DB 1144

I think the bendix part number is:

fronts = DB 1148 AD

rears = DB 1144 AD

there for Bendix Advance pads. So infact the part number for Bendix is interchangeable. Bosch part numbers are DP instead of the DB if you wanted them. but i found after heavy braking the bosch pads turn fairly ordinary very fast, and create alot of dust.

I use ferodo's on the front of my 180 and Bendix advance on the rear. i found it is a good combination, i have the more expensive pads on the rear because i drift it, and there better for lock ups. Either way they are fine.

i have also found the the Bendix pads do not create as much dust.

WICKED! Thanks very much - That's helped me out heaps!... However... Ferodo reckon there are 6 different types of Calipers... would this make a difference to the numbers you given me?

I used Bendix pads on my 300ZX and they worked really well with minimal dust...

WICKED! Thanks very much - That's helped me out heaps!... However... Ferodo reckon there are 6 different types of Calipers... would this make a difference to the numbers you given me?

I used Bendix pads on my 300ZX and they worked really well with minimal dust...

ferodo list ones for the AWD versions, A32 and many more that were also sold in Japan.

but the Part numbers i gave you are for the A31 import 88-93 model RB20DET RWD. so it should be right. if you would like i can order a set for you through work at 25% off. or i cann just get a price for you.

cheers Benny

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...