Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

to add front downforce? i think i know the thing you're referring to... and if i'm thinking of the right thing - when you think about it, if it's angled down at high speed, it's going to push the front of the car down...

like ---> /

but if it's angled up at low speed...

like ----> __ (but say, raised up at more of an angle, duh ;))

then it's not going to make as much downforce, as it's not needed at those speeds...

It comes down at speed to lower the amount of air going under the front of the car, this increases aerodynamic efficiency and downforce (more grip).

It goes up at low speed because aerodynamics dont matter much at low speed (drag coefficent is proportional to velocity squared) and you will probably break it off on a gutter etc.

I believe it's on some R32 GTST. I was looking at an example WAY back when grey imports were just starting to become popular and it's a pretty funky gizmo. It simply adds downforce at high speeds and goes away at low speeds so you get some ground clearance.

I've got one on mine, maybe it was a factory option? All I know is it activates when you go over 70km an goes back up at 50km.(you can hear it go up and down if you turn the radio off) There is a button to raise and lower it yourself but it only works if you have the handbrake up, my guess so you can lower it when you wash your car or something. I agree it adds downforce when you are at higher speeds.

As for a GTR, they already have a grey strip on the front bar that sits lower than the rest of the car so I guess it does the same job.

Didnt some of the R31s have this too?

The HR31 GTS-X came out with the "flip-down spoiler" which worked really well at speeds over 100kph. It was about 6" from top to bottom and would drop the nose of the car and give much better steering feedback. ( See below pic of my 31 with spoiler extended ).

On the 32's it retracts up and down and is so small and ineffective ( and heavy ) that almost everyone removes it from their car ( usually in favour of a FMIC ).

post-2420-1123814268.jpg

haha even nissan believed in "rice", was surprised to find my R32 with this option, seems to be quite a popular one, however you can feel that there is more stability at freeway speeds, compared to stock r32 without one.

My HR31 GT Passage had this Auto Spoiler, looks mad when its down, also some Hr32 GTs-T Front bars we have at work have the 2 spoiler motors and the big spoiler that flips down at the front.. its just another fancy gizmo that the japs love, i reckon it looks cool...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...