Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone ever heard of people using Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) in 5spd manual boxes in skylines, Apparently its supposed to give them better lubriction and quiet the gearbox operation down

If anyone has done this or know if it works well please put up a post as I want to hear other peoples responses before doing it to mine

Its bad for the gearbox. Mine required a rebuild after 30,000km's.

The car yard I bought my old VS 5ltr 5speed (now sold) did this to its gearbox.

Little did I know until I went to drop the oil as the shifter was locking in to place and became really sticky.

It turned out the box required a rebuild as the auto trans fluid stuffed the syncro's, unsure how true it is but apparently the vs 5ltr 5speed had fibro syncro's?!?!

Use good old castrol vmx80 or castrol syntrax 75/90 I think it is.

If have $100 to throw around drop some redline in to it.

I personally think castrol syntrax is just as good.

Edited by Cubes

What about Nissan Skyline boxes, im mainly interested in peoples responses on the RB20DET/RB25DET 5spd's ???

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Cubes - Yeah I have heard good/bad stories about using ATF fluid on 5spd's

Stagefummer11 - I was told today some ford 5spd's used ATF aswell

Yeah im running a R32 Gts-t 5spd and yeah when I come on boost you can hear a high pitch squieling noise from it so id say the bearings are goin to die soon,

I will be looking at either a properly built JATCO or a R33 Gts-t 5spd

either way im looking at 2500 which ever way I go

My belief is that car yards used to use Auto fluid when the gearbox was on its way out to smooth changes etc.

I used to own a VH with a 5 speed and thought it was time to change the gearbox oil. Put the recommended stuff in and could barely change gears.

Strained out the metal bits and put the shit back in. Worked fine till it was written off.

El Bee

Ok from what I know, its obviously a thinner oil. So its used when you have lazy syncros etc, the box is still stuffed, but it will give you a bit of time to save.

Now when we pulled out the redline oils book to, their shockproof ultralight said in terms of thickness it was near on identical to auto fuild. Its basically due to the additive in it.

So your options would be, auto fuild at what $25 for 4L? Some normal fuild and aditive, cost would depend on additive and the actual oil you pick, or the redline stuff at $100+. If the box is RS anyway, just go the auto stuff.

Try it ... If it helps with the whine good. If not drop in some thicker stuff, hopefully that would help?!?

Mine whines like crap also. I put up with it. :D

First second are extremely noisy, third not so bad, 4th 5th are annoying.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...