Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All

I just purchased a gt 30bb turbo off a friend Unfortunately he was pretty useless in giving me specs of the turbo!!!

I want to put the thing on an rb20 and was wondering what kind of lag I would get from the turbo?

Also does any one know the exact specs of the turbo?? such as a/r ratios and compressor and turbine sizes, and what hp there rated at. Done the search came up with nothing.

The part number is Part # 705329-0002

Any help would be great

Cheers

anthony

Edited by black sky
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86508-gt30bb/
Share on other sites

Can't really answer your questions on specs, however I can tell you that any GT30BB turbo will be laggy on an RB20.

there is a thread somewhere on how these turbo's are on the rb25 which is larger in capacity and compression..

DISCOPOTATO03 on these forums will be able to tell you what the specs are with that number

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86508-gt30bb/#findComment-1563668
Share on other sites

Hey black sky I have a GT30 on my RB20 reason being i got it for free so why not put it on. I like it the lag doesn't bother me that must in one way it is good because it is safer in the wet cause it doesn't want to boost every time you take off. My car hits full boost at about 4000rpm to 7200rpm it is quiet a big rush to i might add. it is also good because for just normal driving i can just cruise around with out it want to step out under boost all the time if you have your foot down, if you want to get into it i just boost up first and once you are out of first gear and change it will boost all the way through you gears if you keep your foot into it. It is all good and well to say get something smaller put if you got this at the right price why not put it on just mean you will start boost at 4000 instead of 3200 - 3500 with a smaller turbo. sorry i cant help you with the spec's as the guy that gave me mine didn't say much about it just that it was only 2000km old he did say that it was good for at least 500bhp. So put it on and good luck with it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86508-gt30bb/#findComment-1565917
Share on other sites

wheels 24 - lets say you're driving along in the wet and come to a street that you need to turn left in to and it is a steep hill.

a rwd rb20 powered car with no boost in the wet..

how you going to get up that hill at anything above datsun 120y speeds?

what do the rb20's have?

8.5:1 compression?

with no boost, in 2nd gear (I'd assume) how can you possibly have te car moving?

it would feel crap to drive around like that.

full bost at 4000rpm... what exactly is full boost?

what psi or some other form of pressure measurement is your car tuned for?

and around 2500-3000rpm, do you see any sort of positive pressure?

or do you always have to shift back to first gear for situations like I've described above?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86508-gt30bb/#findComment-1565931
Share on other sites

Thanks guys

yea i got the turbo pretty cheap so i thought why not wack it in. at the moment i've got a t3/t4E in there and it's makin full boost at about 4600 so 4000 would be like a dream come true. I've got this in a 180sx so the car's light as all F#$k and she goes good with the T3/T4 turbo in it but i just wanna make some easy power without pushin to much psi through the engine hence the big turbo.

at the moment i'm gettin 204kw@ the wheels in 4th gear and but my coil packs are fowling and the turbo's isnt flowing air properly by the way that's bein made on 15psi.

well if any one else has any more oppinions post up. Thanks for your first hand knowledge wheels_24

Cheers

anthony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86508-gt30bb/#findComment-1566150
Share on other sites

well i do see some increase in power just after 2500 it isn't that bad that i have to drop down to first it still has pretty good pick up when i mean by full boost when i hit about 4000 that is really were it wants to take off and throws you back in your seat i was running 16psi but it seems that i didn't have a very good engine since that i have just had the engine pulled down for a rebuild. But i have taken my car up around olinda and the hills past ferntree gully and it was fine to drive not a problem. Even though the RB20 is a smaller engine they still have a little bit of pick up my mods a as follows:

bosch 040

GT30BB

bigger injectors

fuel reg

wolf 3D

3" turbo back

FMIC

POD

45mm waste gate

Once i have done my rebuild i have been told should be able to get up to 240rwkw maybe with a good tune well thats what chasers think as i should be able to run a little more boost after it is run in as it is a fresh engine and i am putting aries forgies in

Edited by wheels_24
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86508-gt30bb/#findComment-1568226
Share on other sites

full boost when i hit about 4000 that is really were it wants to take off and throws you back in your seat i was running 16psi

Once i have done my rebuild i have been told should be able to get up to 240rwkw maybe with a good tune

So your making less than 240rwkw now on 16psi out of a GT30 ?

Geebus.

You could make more power with better response from a GT28 of equalently sized turbo.

with a typical GT30 you should be aiming for 280rwkw at a minimum.

As for the GT30, what spec is it? thats gonna make a lot of difference

When you say 16psi @ 4000rpm, is that under full load from 2000rpm in 4th on a dyno?

Or realistic stuff on the street?

I'll be betting 1st/2nd your well above 5000rpm before making any moderate boost

Actually, further more... do you have a dyno graph to post up?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86508-gt30bb/#findComment-1581377
Share on other sites

thats when i am driving around on street every day driving i think the reason why i wasn't heaps of power was because of my engine was not in good shape it apears as it is getting a complete rebuild, another reason was because i didn't have a after market fuel pump. I have now bought a bosch 040 pump and once i have got my car back and run the engine in i am hoping to see a good improvement hopfully i do have a graph but no scanner

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86508-gt30bb/#findComment-1582024
Share on other sites

it would be different from 3rd to 4th etc.

In 2nd its making 16psi @ 4000rpm and the same in 4th.

There is no way it would be the same

Post the graphs etc is a good place to start to get a more accurate idea of whats going on...

Spec of the turbo also

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86508-gt30bb/#findComment-1582155
Share on other sites

i don't have a scanner sorry so i cant post up the graph, and for the spec's i don't know them either sorry because the guy that gave it to me didn't tell me what they were and it didn't really bother me that much cause he showed me the receipt him buying it 2 months before giving it to me. you are right there is a difference between 2nd and 4th and the fact that i don't really come on boost in 4th as i only drive this on the road so unless i take it out to say 140 - 150 in 4th it want really hit boost so i cant really say what boost it gets to in 4th. when i get my engine rebuilt and run it up again i will see if i can get my little sister to put it on for me a school for you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86508-gt30bb/#findComment-1582469
Share on other sites

is you GT30 on a RB20 or RB25

ive got a gt30r on a rb20 with a .63ar turbine.

engine also has 'low' compression (140 across the board).

right now it runs tooo freeking lean under spool so it takes forever to spool up but once it does it hits like a sledge hammer and you are off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86508-gt30bb/#findComment-1584622
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...