carl h

my personal vote would be to ditch the vtc for a nice set of upgraded rb20 cams and a 20 ecu remapped to suit.

pretty trick piece of kit that plate is...glad i got a proper 's2' block for my conversion that had the tensioner filled in properly.

dont forget you'll also need a z32 maf if you jump to the z32 as its already setup for it and rescaling the z32 ecu for the r33 n60 maf is a pain. wiring is simple, 4 wires need to be swapped and 2 joined and 1 pulled.

an rb20det ecu is a cheap way to go tunable ecu and can be remapped for your application, or if retaining vtc then use a z32 ecu.

ive been told good old fashioned pipe cleaners work well...the proper cotton cloth ones, not those silly sparkley ones they sell at craft stores.

any pics of mods done to the mount plates would be lovely, fab work is nothing im new to just need to see some examples to base mine off of. here are some fitment pics (or lack there of)

hello all, we're trying to fit an rb30 into an s14 which was previously fitted with an rb20. rb30 block is using an r32 rb25 head and all of the rb20 accessories. engine in the car it appears to be sitting proud of the fenders by a good inch or so (or i assume the extra 40ish mm due to the block hight increase). using an r32 gts-t xmember and mounts. rb30 oil pan appears to be close to fouling on the swaybar. any ideas on how to get it to fit without putting a cowl on the hood? search is a bit slim on this topic.

^ has blown my mind for the day...how did that happen? small end of the rod snap off?

+1 for the ross ballancer, they are a nice piece of kit as i have one for my rb20 and it made degreeing the cams EASY.

just finished putting together a 26/30 hybrid for a friend and using adjustable gears we had to dial in nearly 4*cam retard on the intake and 4*advance on the exhaust to pull his stock cams back into spec as per oem nissan. skimming the deck and head will throw cam timing off but the hybridization of the rb30 really does make it almost a requirement, lots of power to be had with the cams set properly.

exactly what i was after but the second ring gap is questionable...all of the other rb engines have a rather large range for the second ring gap. using a set of NPR std size rb30 rings with a light hone to clean the walls up...top ring came in around .33mm and second at .55 or so all around...a bit worrysome but the rb20/26 has a large gap as well. wish i could find a service manual for this engine.

anyone know what the service manual ring gap specs for the 1st and 2nd ring are for the e/et engines? looked everywhere for a standard bore, standard ring setup with no avail.

it appears that my nismo unit is on the way out with its inconsistent fuel pressure and suspected air leak. the top on the regulator spins around when i try to tighten the adjusting bolt so i've given up on it. has anyone had any experience with the sard regulators they seem to be the only 'decent' alternative out there. post up!

anyone else? curious to know cruise temps as well as wot.

ah ok, i have my egt probe on the manifold about inch or so from the head on the 6th runner (front facing plenum) now that i see that you guys are seeing much higher egts i dont feel so bad.

the tomei 260/8.9mm cams have worked a treat against my 20 w/ a gt30r on the side.

curious to see what kind of egts everyone is seeing at full boost/load on their cars...on mine it will creep up to around 875*c...

cant call up dr.drift as i am in the states...all else fails i'll just build a jumper loom and run the engine off of a rb20 ecu. also im not terribly keen on the bikirom, I've tuned a few cars using it and its a pain due to the software layout and the fact that you have to cycle power to the ecu to get it to restart...not fun when trying to hack out the street drivability. that and lucas hasnt documented the er34 maps well enough for it to be 100% usable.

has anyone figured out the rom tuning info for the er34 ecu such as addresses for maps, constants and such?

werd, got my issues sorted but i need to raise the idle rpm from 600 to 800, using the screw on the side isnt an option...i need the actual address. much thanks to ceffie

as it says, it appears that along the lines i believe that my dump of the stock rom got corrupted along the ways...not good. if ANYONE has a clean dump please email it to [email protected], my poor car is suffering after the pfc gave up the ghost.

post a pic of the ignitor that you have on the motor...you might have the wrong one.

new plugs all around still the same result even the good old screwdriver in the coil pack against ground didnt work.

still no spark and all out of ideas. ive tested coil, ignitor, ecu harness...not sure what else to try. any ideas? would a bad coil harness do this?

dont forget that when it bends the maf voltage to adjust fuel it also adjusts timing too...