carl h

did you fit a crank collar to your rb30 bottom end, iirc the rb30 has the same short snout issues with the oil pump drive as the early rb26... might have caused pump failure.

the lifter problem is why i opted to run dual tomei restrictors rather than blocking one and then restricting the other... havent had problems yet and with the external drains old girl seems to be doing ok.

helping a friend swap a neo rb25det into his s14, he ordered a clutch kit but it didnt come with a throw out bearing...not good. does anyone have a pn for the bearing of perhaps has one laying around that they could pull numbers off of...or even better any idea where to get one?

kerry, i have the pn email me some time.

here here!

i ran the tomei cams on my std springs and didnt have a problem even revving to 8.5...rebuild got tomei springs tho.

mebey it didnt break and they are just poor solder connections? iirc the pfc has a pins to connect the screen to the main board, proly needs to be reheated with some good solder.

proly a heat range too hot for the area, try a colder plug and reset timing to spec.

fitting the rb25det pfc is much easier, the rb20 lacks some of the sensors that the rb26 has. source a rb25pfc have the car towed to a shop that can tune it with the software and upload the rb20 basemaps to the rb25pfc and go from there.

should be fine, just make sure the tune is spot on.

old thread but having the same problem on my rb20 thats been fitted with the n1 pump and restrictors in head, where exactly should i put the silicone, there looks like there is groove in the cam cap which should be filled?

why is he wasting his money, it is his choice and the motor isnt that bad. my rb20 gets 26-28mpg highway and city, it sips gas off boost and is decent enough round town. rb25 was designed to move the boat of the r33 chassis around simply because it was so farking heavy. as far as motor failure, from all the 20's ive seen blown its always the pistons...very few have had spun bearings. but even then the ringlands and piston design on the rb20's piston is quite robust, a motor that has been well tuned will definately live.

no im not on zt, what is it exactly? as far as i know there hasnt been a complete conversion done in the english speaking world, im sure the japanese shops have done it but no one here stateside that i know of has a _working_ attesa car. i have seen a s13 coupe converted to a locked awd using a gts-4 drivetrain, but it was constant 50/50...not ideal.

yes there are a few running round here but it basicaly comes down to improper dot approval. motorex who was the only registered importer for skylines falsifided test data to get cars into the us, they only crash tested the r33 but not the 34 or 32...this eventualy placed the r32 and r34 on the 'never can be legalized' list and if a car comes in an is seized by customs, say bye bye. there is alot more to it than just that but it is alengthy story, it honesly involves scandal, crooks and dishonest shops; iirc if you go onto skylinesdownunder in the us section there is a large thread about what happened and why it happened. there are ways of sneaking a car into the us and getting it registerd but it is tough to do.

thanks for the input, i thought the r32 gtr would be the best interms of attempting a conversion as it is the most basic of the 3 production chassis. however i would be doing this conversion to my s14, so a r33 would be best suited as the r33 and s14 share MANY simmilariaties. if i were to do this i would have one of my local importers cut a car in half and go from there, that way i have access to everything. a waste of a gtr? perhaps but we arnt lucky enough to be able to import them and actualy own them here stateside.

ok toying around with the idea of converting a s chassis car to awd using a skyline as a parts car. starting with the r32 to the r34, what trimlevels of atessa came in each chassis and how did each system work. i know that in some cars they had active differentials and others mechanical... a list or some kind enlightenment would be appreciated.

ive found that water injecton is good for keeping temps down as well as egts when doing long pulls or track time. it cools down much more than just the charge, cools the plenum, head, and the valves. not to mention a car that has had water injecton run on it looks 100X better when torn down than one without, valves are usualy spotless and the head clean enough to eat off of, so it really does 2 things at once; cools the charge and cleans the head.

one of my supra friends pieced together a kit using an RV pump as the pressure source, has an accumulator to keep pressure up...seems to work well. the aquamist kit is a very nice kit, well made and robust...pump that comes with it is high pressure (100psi) and is purpose built.

best place is as far away from the tb as possible and just past the intercooler outlet, spraying before the intercooler will result in puddles of water in your intake system. placing the injection nozzle far away from the tb is good because it allows for maximum atomization and mixing with the charge which results in cooler,denser charge.

i am a big fan of water and water/meth injection, i used it on my own turbo saab back when i started out and it went VERY well. ive actualy got a new aquamist 2d system here that once i get the car fully sorted will be going on, cant beat the cooling benifits it offers.

old news but it does indeed work. i know of a few ppl that have done this conversion due to their stock coils farking out.

hrmm, that would be a curious combo...rb20 pistons with rb25 crank. would bring the motor closer to being square.

are those std pistons next to one another, they look to be very simmilar, not sure bout pin hight tho.

i believe that the rx7 injectors tend to shoot more of a stream of fuel rather than a mist, least thats what i remember while looking round for uprated injectors.

replace the fuel filter and fit a new pump...or try the filter first.