Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GTR NUTZ: please dont tell me you are driving around, in a GTR no less, with absolutely no insurance....

Im not too proud of it, but yes... its only a sunday car right now... that is untill get insurance and 300+KW at all four.

At the moment im mixing around with my parents "spare" car and the GTR.

Im not too proud of it, but yes... its only a sunday car right now... that is untill get insurance and 300+KW at all four.

At the moment im mixing around with my parents "spare" car and the GTR.

i hope for your sake that you dont hit a ferrari/mercedes etc....you're finished if you do, sunday car or not.

or that you have a ridiculous amount of money that you can happily give to the person you hit to pay for their car

Its a very grey area this one. I have heard of many stories where insurance companies have failed to pay out claims or reduce the amount they pay because the vehicle was over the power to weight ratio.

But on the other hand if you read the insurance fine print it will tell you that the car MUST be in road worthy condition and I dont think every skyline on the road is roadworthy. By saying that i mean some of us have cars that are too low or modified beyond the Australian Design Requirements. So therefore you wouldnt be covered to the full extent of your policy if they investigated right into it. Insurance companies have still payed the claim in several of these cases before and the still have the legal right not to.

I drove a 250rwkw R33 when i was on my P Plates and I was insured. I know alot of other P Plate drivers do the same, but I think you should be pretty sweet.

The main thing you have to worry about is making sure you tell your insurance company about EVERY single modification you do to the car. My mates car got stolen and the insurance claim didnt get paid because he didnt tell them about the 19inch wheels he had on his car because he thought he would try and save some money by not having to pay as much for his insurance policy. The insurance companies response was that the 19inch wheels made the car more attractive to theives and thats why they stole the car. Right or wrong the can legally back out of the Insurance Policy.

if the car was stolen, and never recovered, why the hell did he tell them it had 19's on it? if he didnt want to put them on his policy, he obviously didnt expect that he get more money in the event of a pay out to compensate for the wheels...

so if the car was gone, the only way the insurance company would know about the wheels is if he told them....what an odd thing to do

i think his plan was for the car never to be stolen or damaged :rofl:

obviously. but he said the wheels weren't listed on the policy, therefore how the hell did the insurance company know about the wheels if it was stolen and not recovered

Edited by madwob
dunno.. but im sure when he told the police it was missing he told them it had 19's.

well there you go...ya lie to the insurance company to save maybe a couple hundred dollars, and it costs you $15-20k.

Because the car was found 2 days later torched and it still had what remained of the wheels left on the car. The wreck was towed to the insurance holding yard and the car evaluated and it was then found that the car had been fitted with items not listed on the insurance policy

Because the car was found 2 days later torched and it still had what remained of the wheels left on the car. The wreck was towed to the insurance holding yard and the car evaluated and it was then found that the car had been fitted with items not listed on the insurance policy

its not your mates fault the crims decided to slap a set of 19's on it before they burnt it....lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...