Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i thought id start a new topic so everyone doesnt miss the post and ask it in the future, as the manual conversion one is dragging on with alot of useless posts :)

so i got the motor out and i got in the bay and took some shots of it properly, and notice how far in the booster is. its 40mm and that still allows access to get the filler cap off and on easy, and on inspection of a 260rs it has the same amount of the booster reccessed and sits in exactly the same spot.

any q's just ask :P

cheers

Brad

post-20455-1126521267.jpg

post-20455-1126521359.jpg

post-20455-1126521412.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87502-recessing-clutch-booster-pics/
Share on other sites

I must say, your work looks PRO

I hope that i can do similar with the engine still in, will have to remove the brake cyl though..

What did you do regarding the lines between everything? Did you get custom made lines? Specifically about the steel lines, did you just take the ones from the GTR?

Also, where did you mount everything else that you listed in the manual conversion thread??

Thanks heaps!

I must say, your work looks PRO

I hope that i can do similar with the engine still in, will have to remove the brake cyl though..

What did you do regarding the lines between everything? Did you get custom made lines? Specifically about the steel lines, did you just take the ones from the GTR?

Also, where did you mount everything else that you listed in the manual conversion thread??

Thanks heaps!

cheers for comment on workmanship :0 just cause its done at home doesnt mean its not done right, we got all the gear that a mechanic shop has and only thing we aint got is a hoist :)

well i still havent got a vacuum canister made up for vacuum when its on boost, so i aint mounted that yet, but it doesnt need this and i didnt notice any issue driving it, though clutch is heavy and im not sure what difference it will make when hooked up, ill keep ya's posted when its back on the road :P

the metal line is same as a gtr and its got a black metal bracket that it clips into under the car on the chassis rail (just visible in the pic) and that came with the kit

i got a couple of not so good pics of the mounting of the pedal box, they are abit blurry and distorted but still usable :D

1st and 2nd pic is looking up towards the sky from the pedal area under the dash :) unfotunately the carpet underlay is in the way to see the recessing of the booster properly.

3rd is looking at the top of the pedal box (towards the pedals) and the mountings i used are from the old footbrake assembly, and as u can see we welded a tab off the left side of the pedal box and drilled a hole in it to use the stock mountings :) (dash was off for this pic)

4th pic is showing how close the clutch booster sits to the brake booster, its not possible to get the clutch booster out without removing the brake booster (or at least losening the bolts off to pull it out to get the clutch booster from behind it)

thats about all the pics i got worth showing at the moment, ill take some better detailed ones of all the bits when i get a spare 5 min daylight :)

hope it helps

Brad

post-20455-1126524540.jpg

post-20455-1126524904.jpg

post-20455-1126524997.jpg

post-20455-1126525318.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...