Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i was talking to this guy and he was positive that his car was running 10 psi. now his car is completely stock, i mean he has an aftermarket muffler and a boost gauge. his gauge reads 10 but i cant see that it has been boosted by any method and it sure doesnt drive like it run 10psi.

anyway i said that stock boost is 7 to 8 psi depending. this is right yeah?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88088-stock-boost/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
he got bleed valve or seomething?

one of those turbo smart ones

You can get extra boost by doing as I've done.

...and yes......7-8 psi is about standard on a R33 GTST (RB25DET).

Small hole drilled into the wastegate rubber hose. (directly before WG).

Innitially, it's hit and miss.

I made up 5 small lenghts of pipe with holes of various sizes. (.5 to 1.5mm), till I found the right one, (i carried them in the glovebox for easy change over).

Making constant 12-13psi (measured) for the past year now.

I had the GFB bleeder valve, ....cops pulled it out for me.

The hole in the W/G pipe is undectable!! (and also has the same effect as the $80 GFB!!!)

I re-gapped the plugs to .8mm at the same time.....could never bo back to std boost now!!

Also have been running the 'black wire' mod too, on the solenoid (also undectable), so boost cuts in earlier. Works great, that mod!! (search the forumn, but make sure you earth the right wire!!!).

All this works for me, and the car makes a conservative and safe no- bullshit 174RWkw....not bad for standard...thanx to these forumns!!!!

Mark.

Edited by superspit
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88088-stock-boost/#findComment-1643066
Share on other sites

Hey mark.. when you say standard, how standard??

cause i have read that R33's run about 140rwkw stock (7psi).. im just curious (QRI05E) if ONLY 5 psi of extra boost have given you 35rwkw?? or you have a 3" exhaust and pod aswell???

Oh yes, and to help answer the topic question... i have seen R33 GTSt's fitted with an R32 GTSt WG acutator which are set to 10psi from factory therefore no bleed valve required!!! maybe your friends R33 has one fitted??

Regards,

Sarkis

Edited by QRI05E
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88088-stock-boost/#findComment-1644236
Share on other sites

Well there is such a thing called Boost creep, From Small mods like Exhaust and pods, When I got my car in with exhaust and pod the boost gauge was running around 12psi, I got told from a good source that mild mods that you would norm wouldnt think anything about can cause boost creep. So that could also explain about your friends R33

Edited by 7yphon
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88088-stock-boost/#findComment-1645720
Share on other sites

Hey mark.. when you say standard, how standard??

cause i have read that R33's run about 140rwkw stock (7psi).. im just curious (QRI05E) if ONLY 5 psi of extra boost have given you 35rwkw?? or you have a 3" exhaust and pod aswell???

Oh yes, and to help answer the topic question... i have seen R33 GTSt's fitted with an R32 GTSt WG acutator which are set to 10psi from factory therefore no bleed valve required!!! maybe your friends R33 has one fitted??

Regards,

Sarkis

Hi QR,

I don't know the standard specific power output at wheels of 33GTST, your numbers seems ok. By standard all I mean is there are no internal/turbo/ECU changes to my car.

3 inch zorst and old foam Airinx pod (as per my Avitar description) is what I've got. So I guess that 'in-combination' with these 'shallow' and basic mods, I would be making the extra Rkw.

By the way QR, I can actually put my car back to 'stock' within a couple of hours and feel a dramatic difference. (much slower on take off, which is all I'm interested in by the way!!!)

Picture is of my 'bleeder valve' prior to Police kindly removing it for me!!

Hole in the WG pipe works just the same, (says a lot for these devices!!$$$$$)

ps .I don't think the R32 actuator you mention relates to me??

Thanx mate!!

Mark.

post-9261-1129622908.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88088-stock-boost/#findComment-1649609
Share on other sites

Well there is such a thing called Boost creep, From Small mods like Exhaust and pods, When I got my car in with exhaust and pod the boost gauge was running around 12psi, I got told from a good source that mild mods that you would norm wouldnt think anything about can cause boost creep. So that could also explain about your friends R33

12psi on a 33-t with nothing more than an exhaust and a pod?

:D:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88088-stock-boost/#findComment-1649652
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...