Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a jaycar boost controller

jaycar fuel adjuster

and hand controller

and cord

these all cost over 250 in kit form

these have being put toghrter and tested all good

these i will sell for 190 firm pm me

Edited by teazn_r33
i have a jaycar boost controller

jaycar fuel adjuster

and hand controller

and cord

these all cost over 250 in kit form

these have being put toghrter and tested all good

these i will sell for 190 firm pm me

That is a cheap price, there is at least a full days labour in making up the kits and that's if you are experienced at making up electronic kits and have the right tools.

For more information on these great kits pop over to the Stagea section and have a look at the Jaycar DFA and IEBC thread. My Stagea achieved a 30% increase in power from tuning with these and that's with zero mechanical mods.

Hope you sell them, I want to see other peoples results.

:O cheers :)

Hey thats a great price but they dont cost over $250.

I have built the three kits aswell, took me a few days. Good luck with the sale.

DIGITAL FUEL ADJUSTER RRP $79.95

HAND CONTROLLER FOR DIGITAL ADJUSTERS $59.95

INDEPENDENT ELECTRONIC BOOST CONTROLLER RRP $79.95

RS232 Connecting Cable Computer Lead - 1.8mt RRP $8.35

sorry plus i forgot to mention a apexi solinoid from a boost controller i use to have better than the standard ones

so yes over 250 worth sorry

190 must go today or tomorro

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...