Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Is the fuel light on the fuel gauge? maybe mine isn't functioning... ;)

Sorry to hijack..

Do you reckon I should check my injectors? maybe as part of my 100thou service.. I get about 350km to a tank :)

Also I have noticed that the car runs pretty rich - apart from the obvious poor fuel economy - after having my zorst modified, the car will occasionally let out quite a big backfire... and it will pop quite a lot... what do you guys reckon?

To see closed loop mode operating head to the etc menu then sensor check.

Look at the o2 value. It will cycle up and down from roughly .2v to .8v.

The injector duty on my pfc h/c stays at low values while in closed loop mode, it only ever reads 0% when the car is off or when deceleration fuel cut is active. i.e using gears to slow down with rev's greater than approx 1500rpm.

so basicaly if the o2 sensor is going up/down.. and the injector duty is quite low then its in closed loop ?

To see closed loop mode operating head to the etc menu then sensor check.

Look at the o2 value. It will cycle up and down from roughly .2v to .8v.

The injector duty on my pfc h/c stays at low values while in closed loop mode, it only ever reads 0% when the car is off or when deceleration fuel cut is active. i.e using gears to slow down with rev's greater than approx 1500rpm.

Closed loop is when the ecu is using the Oxygen Sensor Output to control fuel mixtures to a ratio of 14.7:1 or stoich. This increases economy and allows the cat to give the cleanest output from the exhaust.

It is only used under light load and throttle driving conditions.

Should be in closed loop on a standard RB up to 0 Vacuum.

Modified engines it may be different.

hmm i think i get it.. why do people play with there light load settings in there ecu's though if the closed loop thing takes over ??

Closed loop is when the ecu is using the Oxygen Sensor Output to control fuel mixtures to a ratio of 14.7:1 or stoich. This increases economy and allows the cat to give the cleanest output from the exhaust.

It is only used under light load and throttle driving conditions.

Should be in closed loop on a standard RB up to 0 Vacuum.

Modified engines it may be different.

cubes - youve confused th e hell out of me

i thought closed loop was when "i.e using gears to slow down with rev's greater than approx 1500rpm"

tell me more please :(

Sorry Buddy, I was refering to the 0% injector duty cycle, the only time mine reads that is when decelerating, when decelerating the ecu cuts fuel, its a little feature new cars have to save fuel and apparently wear and tear.

Closed loop generally is used up to around 30-40rwkw's. Then it drops out and uses the map.

To furthur aid fuel economy you can play with that area of the map and tune to stoich (14.7:1) until the ecu see's 0 vacuum.

Edited by Cubes

The reason is, because,

The ecu can only add like + or - 5% of injector pulse width or "on duration" from the base pulse width which is programmed into the light load map points, when the unit is tuned.

Like if the base map figure was 2msec duration, but to acheive a stoich ratio of 14.7:1 it actually really required 1.2msec, the ecu can't adjust add or subtract that much from the base value.

The reason it can't is because, if for instance the O2 sensor was faulty and gave incorrect readings, the ecu could adjust the injector pulse width to whatever gave the output, it thinks is correct. But really it isn't because the O2 sensor is faulty.

Even if you tune your base map settings to exactly 14.7:1 mixtures, when you get different fuel, different temperature days etc, it will never be exactly 14.7:1. But closed loop allows small adjustments to keep it at that output for economy and emmisions.

What I'm curious about is why there is much difference between cars...

Assume you don't gun it much at all, it should be in closed loop say 80% of the time..

Now the the 02 sensor should be doing most of the work and the ECU adjust fuelling to get to 14.7 AFR. So a slighlty misreading AFM shouldnt affect fuel economy. It is then down to throttle application (If engine is worn takes more throttle to maintain same speed), wheel alignment, tyres but thats about it.

I used stuff all throttle and on the highway still only got 11L/100k!!! What is the go!!

Possibly, dirty air filters, filters sucking hot air from underbonnet (typically applies to pod users), retarted ignition timing, spark plug condition, viscosity of the engine oil, engine temperature, age of 02 sensor, restricted exhaust.

All those types of thing can and will effect economy.

So best check that its all up to scratch, before you really worry to much.

Yeah done most of those. I have new high flow panel in stock box, Ignition timing is 17 deg BTDC (15 is in manual), spark plugs new about 3000km ago, oil 2000kms old (10w 40 I think), 02 sensor is old I think, exhaust full turbo back 3", engine temp always in middle gets up there quik enough to not warrant repalcing thermostat. Fuel filter about 20 000km old.

If a fuel filter is partially blocked though I would think it may hesitate or lean out on boost. At stock boost it was going to 10:1 AFR. Also a blocked fuel filter would mean that there would be less flow through injectors right if causes pressure to drop?

Can't hear any vacuum leaks. I have ran some injector cleaner through (Redex). Starts easily in the morning, no splutter at all. I dont sthink it warrants ripping out injectors to clean at the moment - I am hardly using any throttle application to go anywhere so it's not as if they are a problem I think, no hesitation or missing. If they are flowing a little less than they shoul this would = less fuel - better consumption..unless leaky injector which I don't think I have.

This fuel econmy was on stock ecu and boost but I now have PFC and getting it tuned Saturday. I think it is using a bit more with PFC but I am running 10psi and tested it a little more lately (Not reving past 5500rpm though - still on base map)..Knock is below 32.

My fuel economy isn't as bad as what some report but still I reckon should be 10-20% better. On the highway I had aircon on for quite a bit - most of the time I have it off though.

I drive to work for about 15km - half of which is no traffic lights constant 80km/h and I get about 12L/100km. On a highway trip it is about 11L/100km

Thanks for the ideas.. Any others??

Edited by benl1981

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...