Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I've got a R33 GTS-t... My park lights wont turn off for some weird reason. I turn the switch off near the steering wheel obviously, and the lights wont go out. It's killing my battery.. Does anyone know where I should start looking? I've got a fair idea of auto electrics, but this one has me stumped??? :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90981-park-lights-wont-turn-off-help/
Share on other sites

my park light did not work at all, we have the same problem

Yeah.. this includes the tail lights glowing, and the whole dash is lit up, I dont think mine has actually got front park lights!

Hey I'll tell you what - I'll swap ya mine for yours, and we'll be right then aye? haha..

Any auto electricians out there??

It may seem a bit simple but is your park light switch on. The one in the centre console just next to handbrake or behind the gear lever. I had the same problem turns out one of my mates switched it on.

OMG - I dont deserve to own a skyline.. LOL

I was the park light switch on the headlight boom. God I'm glad i didnt go to an auto electrician for that. The humiliation on SAU is enough :D

Sorry to waste your time guys

  • 11 years later...

Yeah I ha

On 13/10/2005 at 7:51 PM, Primordial said:

OMG - I dont deserve to own a skyline.. LOL

I was the park light switch on the headlight boom. God I'm glad i didnt go to an auto electrician for that. The humiliation on SAU is enough :D

Sorry to waste your time guys

Where do I find this switch? I've taken my combo switches off to make sure it wasn't that and park lights are still staying on. Can you send me a pic of what I'm looking for? Got my whole dash pulled apart 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...