Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all i hope you can help

im having problems with my brake system

i have equipped

R32 M spec 4 piston callipers

ABS system bendix ultimate pads

castroll super dot 4 fluid

stock rear callipers and pads

nissan patroll ABS master cylinder

i am having problems when i blead the brake system the brakes are fantastic for like 3 months then they go really soft over like 2 week period

i dont know what the problem is as there are no leaks in the system anywhere and the master cylinder never needs topping up

i cant work it out

is the master cylinder not suited (patrol cylinder is a long story basically the brake shop lost it and replaced it with this supposed to be the same throw and bore size

what can it be is the fluid not suited should i be using a better brand fluid and if so what brand as i want better fluid anyway as i will be doing club level racing next year

should i change the master cylinder to something else (the car is a s13silvia with RB20 allready eqiupped with standard ABS in the silvia)

and if so what?

if any one has expieriance with any of these problems please let me know its starting to get annoying bleeding the brakes every couple of months

should i get the lines remade?

can i use thread tape on the lines for "just in case"?

thanks guys heaps

cheers

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91322-r32-brake-system-problems/
Share on other sites

also if i can ask sydney kid and any other expeirienced or knowledgable people a question

i bleed the brakes this arvo all was well and good flushed 3 bottles of motul 5.1 (i used this because on motuls web site they said specially designed for ABS units so wont ruin seals in the ABS)

any way as i bleed the ABS unit the front the ABS again the front again

then moved round the back did the passanger side all good so far but when i got to the drivers side i found a problem

when i bleed the brake calliper after the fluid ran out the line (you can see it) no matter how long i bleed them for it looks like its sucking air in some where in the system and ill be stuffed if i know where from and it only happens on this calliper

if it only happens on this side what can it be

and is this causing my previuos problem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...