Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its not realy .You have a good AC technik who is flushing and driing sustem properly and fill system with right amount of gas ,change dryer and using a quality oil .

And You have a AC "technik " - tradesman who just put gas in system with cheap gas without proper flashing /specialy after old gas and oil / wich is not working with 134 gas oils.Its cooling but not enough and later starts problem with compresor.

So its not always cheaper is a beter.Price somwhere in between as Daniel say but ask what is he doing before he start.

I jusr came back from a place who quoted me 260 for a conversion (car was only just imported and still running Japan setup)

I want the original jap gas - ive been told its illegal ( doesnt bother me) and due to this its (apparently) impossible to get.

There must be a cheaper option than $260 ???

Does anyone know of anyone who has done this to a GTR???

.......im melting :D

We do the conversion for $200 at my work for an R32 GTR.

The problem with R12 is that you won't be able to find it anymore. It's not illegal up here, dunno about NSW. But the only people who still have it are either getting rid of their old stock, or getting old degases from wreckers to illegally stock up on it. If you want to still run R12 then you will have to find an old A/C outlet where they may have some old stock left.

to give you and idea i paid 99 for a regas from a mobile service he came to my house and did it, as well as checking the whole system for leaks.

just look at yellow pages and you will see heaps of mobile services just ring one and see how they sound.

We do the conversion  for $200 at my work for an R32 GTR.

The problem with R12 is that you won't be able to find it anymore. It's not illegal up here, dunno about NSW. But the only people who still have it are either getting rid of their old stock, or getting old degases from wreckers to illegally stock up on it. If you want to still run R12 then you will have to find an old A/C outlet where they may have some old stock left.

Im guessing your in QLD??

Do you know of anyone who can do the conversion in NSW ??

Id prefer to have a name and number instead of hitting the yellow pages and speaking to people who pretend to know what theyre doing with it rather than actually knowing what they're doing with it

Thanks

Im guessing your in QLD??

Do you know of anyone who can do the conversion in NSW ??

Id prefer to have a name and number instead of hitting the yellow pages and speaking to people who pretend to know what theyre doing with it rather than actually knowing what they're doing with it

Thanks

Concord Auto Electrician - Ph : 97473253 - Ask for John

On Parramatta Rd, Concord NSW

Tell him Andrew that had a black beema sent you.

If you pay cash should it be $90 and he does a really good job. Just got mine done last week and its %$# freezing...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...