Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HAHAHAH yeah sigsputnik.. oh well... learning curve I suppose. If nothing was wrong with it, I don't imagine I'd have even popped the hood ;) I'm just glad we have (most likely) found the bugger. I ordereda 2nd hand replacement TPS from Justjap this morning for $110 delivered. Should be here Mon/Tues and fitted later that week. Will let u all know!

At least this way I'm finding out other things while the car's at the mechanics: like how one front rotor has small cracks and they recommended I replace both fronts (most likely with DBA slotted ones) and also new pads to suit (thinking Bendix Ultimates as every thread says Race Brakes RB74 are very noisy and my (whatever they are) brakes are already squealing like a b*tch). How dodgy is it when ur brakes are so noisy that u hesitate to brake for pedestrians! (jk, but nearly not..)

I just wish the workshops that backup the warranty I (stupidly) paid for didn't have reputations so bad that it deters me from making use of it!!

FFS! Now I have an oil leak (I think the sump plug is slightly loose after the oil change, GRRRRR) and I also have something dripping from the plastic pipe directly below the ABS unit which comes out of the firewall! Water? Some kinda coolanr used in the A/C system?? Far out.. Oh well, another thing to add to the "to do" list for Mr Mechanic. I've already hand-tightened the new oil filter just in case it was loose (was out at the time, no tools) and will see how much oil forms under the sump plug to check if that is the oil leak. Hopefully there's not much and I can tell it's the definite cause, otherwise it'll be another thing to find. Man, I can't wait til I'm looking at my car for fun, instead of troubleshooting things (however little each one may be, they're adding up!). Anyone got one of those fumoto oil sump releases? www.fumoto.com.au i think they look rather nifty. And this is the second (out of 3) professional car services I've had that resulted in an oil sump plug leak!

OK so today the throttle position sensor was replaced. Car idles MUCH MUCH better now. There is only a very *slight* miss maybe once every coupla minutes.

And (unrelated) my new rotors and brake pads are an immediate improvement.

But now I have the misfire between 4-6K. I guess I just didn't notice cos I hadn't pushed it up that far too much until now, thinking the car was all fine. *cries* :)

Feels like the engine is cutting in and out very rapidly. Like you're very very quickly taking ur foot off the gas momentarily and putting it back on, several times per second through that RPM range. Basically exactly like they describe in this thread, which I'm about to read (again.. i read it when i first had troubles, thinking it was related).

Indeed. I'm gonna look into the dodgy araldite etc solutions, even if they are temporary. If they help/solve it, I'll buy new packs. But that'll have to wait a while as I'm running lean $$ for the rest of this month from fixes already done! :P

Yeah but the 2 places who back up the warranty are the dodgiest #(%*#%*'s in the city and I refuse to take it to them unless it blows up in a big way and I realy can't afford to fix it. Plus, this is one of *those* problems. EG they test the coilpacks with a multimeter and say they're fine, when u really need to play with it in detail to isolate the problem. Even the mechanic I like and haev taken the car to so far said the packs are fine (not the stock ones, and not ideal, but fine). I really don't care any more, I've just heard way too many horror stories about the warranty's mechanics to take it there. Especially as this problem only presents itself between 5-7k. The places I'm avoiding are known for screwing up ppl's cars bigtime and using them out of hours and even going on driver training day's using customers cars. I don't trust em.

That, and I'm 99% sure the warranty ppl will patiently wait for me to explain how my car pops and farts when I'm 1-2K off redline and then say "WHAT DO U EXPECT IF YOU DO THAT TO A CAR?! BYE" The warranty is worth jack, and was thrown in, didn't add anything to the cost. Probably cos they know they'll barely ever get a claim on it cos of who provides the work!

Fark! Yeah, it's a worry when a workshop's reputation and the impression you get from them (and the dodgy personality the rep exudes) deters non mechanical-minded people enough to make them try their own car work. Funnily enough, the guy who I got to work on my car also left an oil leak, but he admitted it (major family problems happened to him that day and he wasn't thinking straight) and he fixed it real quick. :P I don't care if ppl screw up, as long as they admit and fix it without any extra charge to you. It's the ppl who deny it or cover up problems that I hate.

PS. I'm about to order some Splitfires to solve the high rev misfire problem. Then hopefully she'll be running like a dream cos there aren't any other problems with the car. Will post my results on the appropriate 'missfire under boost' thread.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
    • I used to love going to Amaroo to watch the HQ series go for broke (eventually stopped due to lack of spare parts) and also the Porsche series.  It was so cool to back your car up to nearly the edge of the viewing barrier and party with your friends, having a bbq and alcoholic/non drinks. It was such a family/mates atmosphere
×
×
  • Create New...