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Help R32 Won't Start

sullyiv

By sullyiv,
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sullyiv Rookie

sullyiv

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I've been lurking around here a while and have learned alot. Never had a reason to post till now.

I have an r32 gtst with an rb20det, 25t turbo, 550'cc injectors, q45 AFM, and Emanage ultimate to control the fuel and such. The car has been running fine right up until the last week or two. The car started to run way lean (16-19) at idle and would refuse to accept fuel upon acceleration. There was about a 2-3 second delay upon hitting the gas to time the engine recovered. That's just an average sometimes it was worse. We found out the power wire was lose on the AFM, quick fix to put it back together until I had time to resolder. This didn't fix the lean issue as I hoped. I took all the wires off the AFM and resoldered them all but go the ground and signal mixed up and possibly cooked the AFM. The car started ran for about 30 seconds then died and hasn't started since. I have checked most every sensor in the book and tried to line up the timing belt at TDC to verify cam placement, all looks well. I have spark and fuel pressure, injectors are firing. I have tested 3 different CAS all the same result, either all bad or all good not sure. If I take it out and spin the CAS I get injectors firing and until I pulled the power spark (don't miss that on future tests, made quite a bang). All fuses look good, all coils test out the PTU has been used on a different car and there may be something I have missed!!! Please help me out here I have used some really good advice from this forum to help troubleshoot so far, but am out of ideas. Thanks for your time. Oh yeah have swapped ECU's and tried to run without the E-manage still no go.

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Nathan_G1 Proficient

Nathan_G1

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"I took all the wires off the AFM and resoldered them all but go the ground and signal mixed up and possibly cooked the AFM"

You probly did cook your AFM, but its to my impression that with the greddy e-manage ultimate you dont need to run an airflow meter?? This is what i was told by a doofus at Cartoys. Whether hes right or not is another story. But yeh, try replace your AFM with a Z32. To check your fuel pump, disconnect the feed hose at the fuel filter get a bottle or bucket and put your car on accessories to see if it still pumps fuel if it does, pull your filter off and replace it, could b blocked will cost around $15. Should replace em every 10,000ks

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

There is an easier way to check your fuel pump and that is to check current draw at the fuel pump relay. If the filter is blocked it will come up to around 8 amps if the pump is rooted it will be 0-2 amps and if ok it will be 3-6 amps.

sullyiv Rookie

sullyiv

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He guys, thanks for all the reply's. Turned out to be 2 bad spark plugs. I checked them in the dark originally and got spark on all six. When I went back and checked one more time I found that 4 was firing inside the plug and actually had zero carbon on it, and six had cracked and was firing inside the plug as well. I had already replaced the PTU, CAS and some relays but nothing got it going. As far as the fuel pump I checked the pressure on the line from the engine compartment and was getting good fuel.

Nathan_G1 the doofus was right about the emanage, you have to program the AFM out and replace it with a pressure sensor. I am working on getting there just need the pressure sensor and a few runs to program the map.

Now I have a continuation on a problem that started before the car died. The car now starts and runs strong, but after running for 20 minutes or sitting in traffic it starts to run lean and stalls. If it had a carb I would say vapor lock. The operating temps are in range and the car runs fine once I get up above 1800-2000 rpm's. I was thinking the cold air value is stuck and will pull it later tonight, anyone got some history on this. I am searching the archives but thought I would ask while I have your attention. Thanks again for all the info above.

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