Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok! people always talk about reseting the ECU when changing anything on the car so that the car can re-learn to maximise performance/gain better fuel economy etc. the quote i hear over and over again is after all residual energy is drained from the car and you reconnect the battery you need to "thrash it!" i was wondering what most people consider "thrashing it". and if you have already done this then what revs were you thrashing it out to and for how long?

I recently changed my o2 sensor and drove it for a good 20mins reving each gear out to 5-6G's.didnt use 5th, was cruising through the local suburbs. Is this the way to do it. I figure that this will be telling the ECU that this is the driving style of the car and change the fuel/air ratio accordingly to a richish mix. Therefore im not expecting big savings on my fuel bill. What has everyone else done?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94092-the-perfect-reset/
Share on other sites

Full load is all it needs. The more times it get's there, the finer it can tune itself. It constantly learns and recurves it's figures...it's just more coarse when you do the reset.

Full load means full boost, full throttle....you will probably need to take it to 6...no further. Do this in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th (on highway), then resume normal driving.

Cheers for that. I did take 1st-4th to roughly 5/6G's. the car has always been a realy smooth ride and that hasnt changed. have noticed a increase in fuel economy aswell. roughly an extra 100km to a tank. pretty pleased with that.

Sorry to butt in on the thread... But i just want to confirm how to reset the ecu....

I read somewhere, all that is required is that you disconnect the Batt and stomp on the break a few times, reconnect the batt and do the above....

That sounds to simple..... was someone having a lend of me? hehe

Cheers,

Steve.

Sorry to butt in on the thread... But i just want to confirm how to reset the ecu....

I read somewhere, all that is required is that you disconnect the Batt and stomp on the break a few times, reconnect the batt and do the above....

That sounds to simple..... was someone having a lend of me? hehe

Cheers,

Steve.

Yes, that is correct. Dunno if it will make a difference but don't stomp on the brake, just keep your foot on it for 1 minute.

There are other ways but that is the most straight forward.

Whats it learning when you drive with the motor fully loaded?

Has it got a dyno strapped to the wheels and says, lets make some more power. this guy is up it, lets add an extra 10deg timing.

lol

The ecu might be able to learn basic crap like, closed loop fuel injection pulse widths and a target/estimated aac idle control valve values for idle jugement etc.

Knock sensing is going to be preety active, and just add the timing back in gradually (if not at every ign key off) If it pulls it out its for a reason.

Either way thats stating what it may be able to learn in the best possible case scenario.

Im still unsure of what flogging it makes it learn, the only time it can get feedback is in closed loop, light cruise driving from the O2 sensor, and it can check target idle speed to actual idle speed from the CAS.

It can't learn that you want it to make an extra 100hp at the wheels.

Whats it learning when you drive with the motor fully loaded?

Has it got a dyno strapped to the wheels and says, lets make some more power. this guy is up it, lets add an extra 10deg timing.

lol

The ecu might be able to learn basic crap like, closed loop fuel injection pulse widths and a target/estimated aac idle control valve values for idle jugement etc.

Knock sensing is going to be preety active, and just add the timing back in gradually (if not at every ign key off) If it pulls it out its for a reason.

Either way thats stating what it may be able to learn in the best possible case scenario.

Im still unsure of what flogging it makes it learn, the only time it can get feedback is in closed loop, light cruise driving from the O2 sensor, and it can check target idle speed to actual idle speed from the CAS.

It can't learn that you want it to make an extra 100hp at the wheels.

It does all of the above and more!

When I reset the ECU and give it a floggin, these rollers come out the side of the car and flip around in front of the back wheels. It then displays a hp figure (speedo needle). I can then use the clock adjuster to dial in the horsepower figure I want. It does one more dyno run then sets it all up for the added power.

How about NO! you freaky dutch bastard.

Hey there

Just want to know if the stock computer is capable of finetuning fuel/air mixtures till the engine is actualli running stoich (not rich not lean) when my r32 was stock it blew out black smoke =running rich.. now ever since i serviced it (oil+filter, spark plugs ) and added a 3"cat back exhaust and resetting the ecu, there is no black smoke coming out of the exhaust. i am pretty sure it not leanning out because i cant hear it ping (still on stock boost). just a bit puzzled why every other skyline i see with my mods blows out black smoke and mine doesnt, not one bit!

also because it not running really rich, hard driving sessions bring out glowing red manifold!

Edited by J_R32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...