Jump to content
SAU Community

Whats Up With My Clutch

wessa02
 Share

Recommended Posts

wessa02 Community Regular

wessa02

Posted
Posted

Just wondering if anyone can give me a rough idea of what the go is with my clutch. I got a series 1.5 gtst manual turbo. When the car is cold or hasnt been driven for a long period of time the clutch shudders when you take off from a stand still. However after driving for a bit the clutch goes back to normal operation. also it kinda just started happing, it wasnt as if it was getting progressively worse which is strange for a clutch.

Has anyone got any ideas of whats the go with it or has experienced it before and how they fixed it and how much it costed to fix

I have only owned the liner for a bout a month now so you will have to for give me for my dumbness. Are the r33's hydrualic or cable clutch

cheers

Wes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94222-whats-up-with-my-clutch/
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Hydraulic.

Do you have any oil leaks from around the back of the engine?Even minor ones.

How does the clutch feel when you give it a hard time? Normal or slipping.

Does it make any noises when the shuddering is present?

wessa02 Community Regular

wessa02

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I couldnt see any leaks but I havent got under neath it yet. After about a minute or two of drivin when its cold in the mornin, it goes back to normal. hard take offs, burnout, reversing or just normal drivin it all seems to go back to normal. When it shudders it feels as if theres small bit on the pressure plate thats slipping no noises as such. Spoke to a few mechanics today and they seem to think its a sticky spot on the pressure plate. All the mechanics said they cant be sure till they actually get it out but if it is the problem then theres no fix but a replacement. However the main mechanic I get to work on all my cars and is excellent got heaps of experience and worked on pro rally cars said that I should try cruzin down a flat bit of road at 100km/h push the clutch in then rev the car up to 4500rpm approx and dump the clutch a few times. He said some times there can bits of crap that can work there way into the clutch and in rare cases this just burns them off the pressure plate. On the bad side it could also blow the clutch. Suppose if its stuffed got nuthin to loose, but I will investigate the issue futher b4 tryin it.

3LIT3 FORS3 have u any clue as to what it could be

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

There are a few things that can cause them to shudder like that.

1: Contamination of clutch plate, pressure plate or flywheel with oil

2: Hot spots on flywheel and pressure plate surfaces

3: Uneven flywheel or pressure plate surface

4: Faulty pressure plate

Due to the fact that it goes away once warm I would have to point towards 1 and 2 erring on the side of 2 mainly. These hotspots are caused by excessive 'riding' of the clutch and puts too much heat into the system. Same as your brakes do when they warp like that.

Really the only way you are going to know for sure is if you remove the g/box. Do you know what type of clutch it has in it?

wessa02 Community Regular

wessa02

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no idea whats so ever about what clutch it is, Is there any of tellin without rippin it out. Im still finding new things about it every day. I got it 100% stock a month ago, but theres been a small repair on the dash. It looks like a monster tacho was install but its only a guess, then I had an alarm system installed the other day and under the left kick panel, I think the installer told me thats where the ecu hides ( or sominthin) and there a heap of wires under there with after market connectors on the ends of them and theyre just danglin round in there. His guess was a piggy back ecu or a upgraded fuel managment system ( he owns a liner him self and has had it for 3 odd years) so I got the small impression he knows whats what and said its nuthin to be worried about. So bak on topic I next to nuthin about the car at this stage but if theres stuff you want me to check and can give me a rough idea of how to do it and what im lookin for I will give it a shot.

Lozza150 Proficient

Lozza150

Posted
Posted

Not much you can do for the clutch unless you want to spend money. Personally, i'd just leave it till it goes.... it will more than likely be hot spots on the flywheel.... OR perhaps the clutch was replaced (before you owned it) and the flywheel was not machined properly.

All in all, i wouldn't worry too much....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...