Jump to content
SAU Community

Atessa Problem? Help Please!

PhilGTR

By PhilGTR,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

PhilGTR Rising Star

PhilGTR

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone, I recently purchased an R32 GTR, but there seems to be an problem with the torque split system but im not sure 100% if it is, i will describe here what i have noticed and hope someone here has an idea of whats wrong. :D

Everynow and then when im just crusing along, with a bit of throttle usually in 3rd or 4th gear doing city speeds at around 2-3k rpm i notice that the torque split gauge is flickering a little bit, the needle moves up and down and it makes the car a bit unsmooth when it is running. Feels like it is constantly changing between front and rear wheel drive. But this hasnt affected the performance of it though, it still goes hard when i put my foot down but just very annoying. I have taken it down to a workshop and they plugged it into a diagnosis thing to check for error codes, but there were none.

Does anyone have a similar problem or have any idea what the problem could be? The car is stock standard by the way.

Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks in advanced!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94625-atessa-problem-help-please/
Share on other sites
Bozz Proficient

Bozz

Posted
Posted

Phil,

It *may* be a dodgy wiring connection or ABS wheel sender. These usually show up as a fault code on the 4WD/ABS computer in the boot as intermittent faults are typically logged.

On the other hand, it might be getting dodgy signals from the wheels so the computer is thinking there is wheel slip and its engaging 4WD. I've repaired this once before and all it took was unplugging and replugging in the ABS wheel speed senders (which also tell the ECU when to engage 4WD by difference of speed).

Try that and failing it, let us know.

Cheers

PhilGTR Rising Star

PhilGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just to back Bozz up,, mine done the same, it was a faulty ABS sensor,,, even stopped the brakes working properly was really annoying.

So where are these abs sensors and wheel speed sensors located? Should I take it to a workshop to get it checked?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

If checking those comes up trumps then it will be your 4wd pump located above the diff. Have had a few GTR's and GTS4's with this problem now and it doesn't matter how many times you bleed the system, change gearboxes or transfers it always ends up being the pump. Check out the sensors first though.

PhilGTR Rising Star

PhilGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hey i sort have same prob,it moves the gauge even when not under load sometimes,also my breaks are dead set bad as,could i have the same prob?

yeah my sguage is constantly moving, like its always in 4wd mode even when i drive normally. But my brakes are okay though. I reckon we both got dodgy abs wheel speed sensors

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

Only time I've seen that happen in mine is when i go over bumps on the road and see the torque gauge flicker up the scale, if i lift my foot off the throttle for a sec it goes back to normal.

PhilGTR Rising Star

PhilGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
This sort of thing happens in my one aswel - when the awd split is changing does your GTR shake a bit???

Are you in Sydney??

Yeah mine shakes a bit when it flickers. very annoying!

PhilGTR Rising Star

PhilGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yesterday i had the car down at the workshop fixing a torn CV boot, and found what causes this vibration!!!!!

Will post up more details when i have more time

Looking forward to your findings!

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

Before you go wasting money on ABS sensors, check your tyre tread... even minimal wear will cause what you are talking about (mine does it too when the rears start to wear down a bit). Its because the rear wheels are now a different rolling diameter to the front (only slightly, but enough to make the torque guage move around when cruising and make the car jerk around a bit).

PhilGTR Rising Star

PhilGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Before you go wasting money on ABS sensors, check your tyre tread... even minimal wear will cause what you are talking about (mine does it too when the rears start to wear down a bit). Its because the rear wheels are now a different rolling diameter to the front (only slightly, but enough to make the torque guage move around when cruising and make the car jerk around a bit).

Yeah i asked a mechanic today who owns an r32 gtr and he said the same thing as you. that the different wheel sizes will cause different rotational speed. And I have noticed this has been happening after I got two new front tyres only, and the rear ones are worn. So i will probably have an excuse to get 4 brand new rims instead :lol:

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

Ok, now i have a bit more time,

We had to replace a broken CV boot on the right hand side, at the same time it was time for a little investigation into the problem, as soon as the CV was off the car the 2 guys in the workshop (Simon and Nathan) saw the problem.

There are 3 symetrical "dents" in the end of the CV housing from the roller part (sorry lack of technical speak) from where the two had clearly been bashing each other for a long time.

Also there was a lip formed at the other end that looked to be caused by the driveshaft grinding away at this point.

Nathan got rid of the lipped sections and put the front back together.

I took it for a drive to get it to shake, it will still shake a TINY bit but only after one of those huge speed humps where the car gets all 4 wheels on it (the type outside most schols). This is really no problem as you can simply wait for the rears to be back on the road and then accelerate. By doing this there is no shaking at all.

Hope this helps guys.

(total cost inc new genuine CV boot was only a few hundred - a small price to pay to solve this issue)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Watermouse
      Original window sticker?

      By Watermouse · Posted

      I got a full sheet set of OEM copied stickers to replace all the faded engine bay ones, great quality too.  Came from England. Someone like that should be able to to make u up what u want so long as u have a quality image to show them 🤷🏻‍♂️
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
×
×
  • Create New...