Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr R32 Vs Gt-t R34 Not Race Just Compairing

scottman

By scottman,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

he needs to budget for a rebuild, or the turbos dropping wheels etc etc :huh:

Although i'd budget closer to 9-10k as once the motor is out (if it lets go) your may aswell do turbos too.

As thats more than likely what it will come down to in a 32-R

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

In the high 20's you can get R32 GTR's with fully rebuilt engines and turbos and some other goodies. I can't believe the prices people pay for stockers when there are some really good modified ones out there at low prices.

scottman Rising Star

scottman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I don't really wanta spead 30k on a car i don't mind in the 20's

I'm only going to have it 1 - 2 years then i'll sell it and get myself a unit

i don't want something with huge Power so mods ain't a big deal i want about 220 to 300 kw

I want the Volk Gt-c Rims there $3000 + $1000 on tyres

so i might have 30k all up but only spead 26k

I had mad R32 Gtr lined up just b4 i sold my Gts-t for 21k it was mint as clean as good compression

then i got book and got myself a 6 month lost of P's and i didn't want it out the front for that long

I should be right they might drop a little in Price and Lots of the trash will have been rebuilt by june

Bluprint Veteran

Bluprint

Posted
Posted

If you want to spend $30k including purchase of the car, wheels and incidentals (insurance?).....

Then I think you can rule out an R34 GT-t basically.

You'd get a decent R32 GT-R for that money, probably with a decent set of wheels on it as well.

I would personally try and dig up a couple of extra grand and get the GT-t seeing as it's going to be a daily driver.

R32 GT-R's are awesome, but if you're going to want a daily driver for around 1-2 years then I'd go the GT-t.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LegendGTR
      EFR7670 exhaust selection RB26

      By LegendGTR · Posted

      I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • PranK
      Stock Airbox and Snorkle for RWC - VIC west

      By PranK · Posted

      Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • PranK
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By PranK · Posted

      This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...