Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i've had this problem with my 32 for quiet some time now and it's beginning to shat me Basically, when cruising, all is fine and no sign of smoke through the rear vision mirror. However, if i put my foot down and ramp up to top end, once i begin to slow down, a massive cloud of white smoke follows It certainly smells like oil so im thinking it's burning oil. Why? I've replaced the turbo but no advancement..

I read up on here somewhere that it could be related to the PCV valve? I know for a fact that when driving hard, the dipstick pop's out and covers my engine bay with oil? I've taped it down so that's no drama atm..

Has anybody had similar problems or suggestions as to how i should go about rectfying it? As for the car, it's an rb20 R32 gtst with fmic, exhaust etc;

Thanks in advance,

nuR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95606-steaming-32/
Share on other sites

If youre popping out the dipstick you have a fair bit of blow by, which points to shagged rings.

Under boost the pcv valve closes anyway, i doubt it's your problem. The big question is, how much oil is in the intake pipes?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95606-steaming-32/#findComment-1730432
Share on other sites

just wanna say that i've fixed the problem and it nothing to do with a rebuild :) It was simply a hose which was being blocked off..As for the distick, the rubber seal wasn't sealing which was causing it to blow off..All is good now :D

Edited by nuR.spec
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95606-steaming-32/#findComment-1736749
Share on other sites

just wanna say that i've fixed the problem and it nothing to do with a rebuild :D It was simply a hose which was being blocked off..As for the distick, the rubber seal wasn't sealing which was causing it to blow off..All is good now :(

And that is exactly why you should seek professional advice from mechanics before taking further steps from information received here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95606-steaming-32/#findComment-1736889
Share on other sites

Maybe you should edit your previous post in this thread.........

Why?

I was merely stating that as much as it is hard to diagnose faults at the best of times when you have the car in front of you, it is even harder to diagnose faults with limited information and hundreds of possibilities with no method of testing from where I sit. That is why it is important, no matter what anybody says on these forums, that you take your car to a professional for accurate diagnosis.

I still resolve to say that there is an underlying problem still as the dipstick should not pop out under the circumstances that he has described.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95606-steaming-32/#findComment-1739009
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...