Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 93 R32 GTST its auto.

In the morning it runs really really slugish up to 3000rpm for about a mintue or so although if you go high the turbo comes on like a switch, after its been about a minute or so its fine. I have a GCG turbo rom tune gtr injector 040 fuel pump FMIC exhaust and pod.

It has only been happening since the tune I had although tuner said all the air fuel ratios are all good and at first thought it was the auto, i also thought this however i tried to rev it in neutral and it revs very slow too just like how it runs.

Anyone have any idea wat it is?

I know to drive slow when its cold but yeah this is very slow and realy have to be carefull with traffic sorta slow

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97020-slugish-cold-start-issue/
Share on other sites

its designed to do this. when the engine is cold (water temp sensor) the ecu retards the timing and adds extra fuel to heat the engine up. during this stage the engine will feel a little flatter and lack response until its heated up. once water temp is around 50deg then its goes to minor level corrections. 80deg is ideal water temp with no correction at all.

also bearing in mind everything else on the car is cold too, diff, gearbox, clutch, bearings etc so its a good thing it lacks response and doesnt come on full stream ahead, prevent bearing / seal excess wear/damage

nah it shouldnt matter how much power it has got. the maps which tell the engine what ign timing and fuel parameters to add for the low load / cruise areas (around 3000rpm ish) wont be any different to your max power tune map areas. the ecu has correction "maps" or settings. these are based on water temp, battery voltage, knock values, air temp (if supported), airflow value and so on.

so based on certain environements the engine is dealt dynamic changes around its environment.

ie when the engine is cold is runs less conservative timing and runs more fuel then when its fully warm. when the engine picks up lots of knock it backs off the timing to protect itself. when the engine detects too much airflow (ie: failed wastegate spring) it protects itself by retarding the timing a lot and dump fuel to richen itself up and try and keep it as safe as possible. when the airflow meter doesnt measure any voltage is does a dynamic rev limit change to 2500rpm. it assumes some air is coming in to allow the engine to run in limp mode but it wont let you rev past, this prevents you from possibly leaning the engine out and causing damage

i also have a rb20det auto R32 and mine does exactly the same thing, very annoying, but once the temp gauge hits the "warmed up" point, you can feel the engine suddenly pick up power. i think the fact we have auto prob "exaggerates" the sluggish feeling.

yeah i just thought it was a bit odd since i have only ever noticed it since tune of the standard computer. Maybe something was fixing in the computer which is why it didn't do it before. Oh well supose ill deal with it. It is a good thing i supose just can't cross the road unless i have a big gap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...